The Cyclopark PPJ is a beautifully maintained rail trail which runs through farmland and small towns.
If there’s a record book for longest place names with fewest consonants, the Outaouais (OO-TAH-way) region of Quebec must qualify. It’s a wonderful place to visit in foliage season, especially if you are celebrating something special, like, for example, a honeymoon (or a wedding anniversary next year . . .) .
Outaouais is north of Ottawa, Canada’s capital and west of Montreal. My sweetheart Marilyn and I had discovered this magical mix of sophisticated suburbs, tiny villages, lovely B&Bs, excellent restaurants and warm, welcoming people a few years ago and we couldn’t wait to get back. We recently spent five days there as part of a nine-day Quebec trip, filling our days with (mostly) outdoor adventures and our evenings with great food, great wines, hot tubs and the deep sleep of the well-exercised and well fed.
What could be more appropriate for a Honeymoon than a bicycle built for two?
We had three bikes with us on this on journey—her road bike, my cyclocross bike, and our fat-tire tandem bicycle built for two. The foliage was at peak the scenery was gorgeous, and this is a wonderful place for biking. But an unusual stretch of rainy, cold weather dampened some of those plans.
Our first day, we had planned to bike and picnic in Plaisance National Park which has 26 km of trails along the Ottawa River. We’d biked here before on a beautiful autumn afternoon on our previous trip. But this was a better day for the geese and ducks which flock (literally) to the park than it was for cycling, so we settled into our B&B, napped, and hoped for better weather ahead.
The next morning dawned bright and breezy, perfect for bicycling, but I had arranged for a morning of flyfishing at Kenauk a 64,000 acre reserve in the hills above Montebello. My guide, Olivier, and I spent the morning in a rowboat, catching and releasing more than two dozen fat, strong rainbow trout from “La Loutre” (Otter Lake), one of the smaller ponds in this huge wild area. Marilyn in the meantime, explored the spa at Le Château Montebello a luxury hotel and the world’s largest log structure. I brought back a couple of trout and the chef at Aux Chantignoles, the Chateau’s main restaurant, artfully prepared them for lunch. What a treat!
Late that afternoon, we were able to walk off the big lunch along the banks of the Ottawa River in Gatineau across from Ottawa, Canada’s capital. Beautiful setting, right in the city.
Even rainy days can be beautiful in Quebec in foliage season as this view from the SteamTrain proves!
The next morning was pouring rain. Instead of biking along the Capital Pathways trail network (I wish more American cities had bike paths like these!), we hopped on the Hull-Chelsea-Wakefield Steam Train that chugged and whistled along the banks of the Gatineau River to the little town of Wakefield, where we walked through the light rain, poked our noses into little shops, and admired the foliage along the banks of the river.
Our last two days provided better biking weather—and we explored two beautifully maintained rail trails: Cycloparc PPJ runs 92 km between Wyman and L’Île-aux-Allumettes through rolling farmland and along the Ottawa River. The Vèloroute des Draveurs (cycle path of the log drivers) is an 80 km ride north from Low to Maniwaki through boreal forests of birch, poplar, balsam fir and spruce. This is very different country, wilder, more remote; I wouldn’t ride here in black fly season, but it’s perfect in early autumn.
I’d love to come back and spend several days riding both of these trails. The trails themselves are inviting, the countryside is beautiful, the people you meet are friendly and the entire Outaouais Region is worth exploring. Life isn’t a spectator sport. Get out and enjoy!
EAT, SLEEP, PLAY . . .
You can’t play outdoors 24/7. In Quebec that’s a good thing! They have welcoming lodging options from luxurious to cozy and inexpensive, and the best restaurants you can imagine.
In Papineauville, we stayed at Au Fil des Ans (819-427-5167), with it’s own little breakfast café (buy a brownie for the road before you leave). This is two blocks from my favorite restaurant in the whole world, La Table de Pierre Delahaye (819-427-5027). Try either the steak au poivre or the fish and don’t miss the apple pie.
In Gatineau, Aux Berges des Outaouais (819-561-5241) is a lovely B&B (spectacular breakfast!) the banks of the Ottawa River a short walk to Sterling Grill & Seafood (819-568-8788) which is now Marilyn’s favorite restaurant—try anything with beef. Be careful what wine you order (they have bottles that cost $12,000!–but the $35 house red was excellent).
In Pontiac we stayed with Guy and Denyse Bergeron in Maison Bon Repos (819-682-1498) which was like going home to Mèmè. The Capital Pathway (we didn’t get to ride) was just feet away. That night we ate wonderful Italian in Aylmer at Bistro Ambrosia (819-682-5333), located in an old fire station with stunning artworks.
The Woodhaven B & B (819-647-5858) in Bristol is an amazing log home with a stunning river view (it’s for sale if you fall in love with it). Dinner that night was at the Café 349 (819-647-6424) in Shawville. Friendly waitress and chateaubriand!
Our final night was in Maniwaki at the Château Logue Hotel (819-449-48481). You wouldn’t expect something this nice in a small northern town. They have a wonderful dining room and the The Vèloroute des Draveurs ends in their parking lot.
We hated to come home.
NO FRENCH? NO PROBLEM
Quebec is officially a French-speaking province. I don’t speak French. Marilyn doesn’t speak French. Yet neither of us have ever had any problem traveling, making reservations, ordering meals or just plain having fun in Quebec.
My advice? Learn to say “bonjour” and “bonsoir” “s’il vous plait” and “merci.” Even the slightest attempt to communicate in French produces big dividends as people smile and respond in English.
Smiles are the same in both languages.
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Tim Jones, Founder and Executive Editor, started skiing at age 4 and hasn't stopped since. In the summer, he hikes, mountain bikes, paddles and fly fishes. In addition to his work at EasternSlopes.com, Tim also writes a pair of syndicated weekly newspaper columns, Active Outdoors and Eastern Slopes, and is Managing Editor of The Angling Report. He lives with his sweetheart Marilyn in New Hampshire with 25 ski hills within easy day-trip distance. 
