As we headed north to raft and stay at New England Outdoor Center (NEOC), the ominously dark clouds ahead seemed fitting, somehow. Burdened with heavy hearts, our family—husband Lincoln, daughters Calli (13) and Kim Han (11) and I—set out on a long-planned overnight family adventure whitewater rafting on the Penobscot River, knowing that even a brief time surrounded by nature would be good for us. We had been coping through a very difficult time in our lives–a parent/grandparent was in failing health and we were all feeling guilty for leaving other family members behind to maintain the bedside vigil in the hospital.
As we approached Bangor, the heavens opened up; downpours and bolts of lightning followed by loud claps of thunder made driving tough. Yet, we kept on and, as we passed through Millinocket and approached Twin Pine Cabins run by New England Outdoor Center (NEOC) on the shores of Millinocket Lake, the dark clouds suddenly gave way to blue sky and beams of sunlight peeking through the clouds. It seemed the perfect metaphor for the next 24-hours, and a much-needed lift to our spirits.
In the sunshine again, we jumped out of the car with that wonderful sense of excited anticipation we feel each time we travel to new places. It didn’t take long to notice the commitment to nature and eco-friendly hospitality here. At the large registration building our clan was greeted by a friendly front desk person who answered our questions with a smile and gave us a map to “Otter,” otherwise known as Coveside Guest House #5.”Each guest house is named for a woodland animal (we passed Moose and Beaver on our way to Otter), and, instead of glaring streetlights, the dirt roads were lit by glowing wooden boxes with pine trees carved into them.
We had expected a tiny, rustic cabin, but when we pulled into Otter we were astounded at the size of what appeared to be a newly constructed lodge-style home. Kim Han, always the leader when exploring new places, bounded inside while we began unpacking the car. One step inside and the whole family was simply “Wowed” by a fabulously special place with soothing earth tones, floor to ceiling windows, high ceilings, contemporary furnishings and appliances. “Up here!” Kim Han yelled to me as I stood in the living room taking in the leather couches, gas fireplace, wide screen TV and fully applianced kitchen beyond. I looked up, and there she was, looking out a large window which opened to the living room below from the master bedroom.
After checking out each room, Calli declared that she could spend the whole summer here, and chose the downstairs bedroom for herself. Otter has three bedrooms, two with a queen and single bed and one with a queen bed. The two full baths showed that these luxury guest houses were recently constructed: a beautiful green vessel sink was built into a thick log slab with a shiny modern chrome faucet in the upstairs bath. Low flow toilets, radiant heat and locally made counters were all indications that the cabins were meant to be as eco-friendly/low impact as possible. The walls were painted moss green, shades of brown, and pond-blue to fit the natural setting overlooking woods and Millinocket Lake beyond. Lincoln looked at me and said “Camping is nice, but I’ll take this any day.” We all agreed wholeheartedly.
River Drivers Restaurant and Pub
Hungry by now, we headed to the River Drivers Restaurant for dinner. A wedding party and two rehearsal dinners filled the restaurant and private dining rooms, but we were delighted to find they could still seat our family. We ordered our food, worried about how backed up the kitchen might be with the place so full. To our amazement, the food arrived quickly and, better yet, was perfectly prepared and presented, hot, and delicious. The biggest delight came when they delivered the bill and we realized how affordable it was. “Five stars,” said Lincoln as he marveled over the $4 Katahdin draft beer which would be double the price anywhere else.
Our friendly waitress explained that New England Outdoor Center owns the resort including all the cabins and guest houses, the restaurant and the white water rafting company we’d join the next day for a thrilling ride on the Penobscot River. After our late dinner, we went to sleep to the quiet sounds of the woods in comfortable beds, as Lincoln and I got our first good night’s sleep in more than a week.
White Water Rafting with New England Outdoor Center
Up bright and early the next morning, we cooked a big breakfast in the fully stocked kitchen (we brought our own food; all pots, pans, utensils, plates, silverware, coffeemaker, and toaster were provided). Then off we went to the Penobscot Outdoor Center to begin the white water rafting adventure meant to release us from the stress we’d been under.
We were amazed to find at least 200 people already there, suiting up and registering for white water rafting trips. NEOC shares the facility with another rafting company, but we easily found their registration table and filled out paperwork, ordered lunch entrees (steak, chicken, fish or vegetarian) and rented wet suits. We then donned PFDs and helmets amidst crowds of other excited rafters.
Next, all 120 people on the New England Outdoor Center boats enjoyed a highly animated orientation where we learned the most dangerous thing on the river is the T-handle of the paddle (lest the guy in front of you jabs it unknowingly in an eye or cheek in all the excitement of running a rapid in high water) and what to do if the raft flips. We then boarded buses and drove up the famous Golden Road with our eyes peeled for moose.
At our put-in destination, we met our guide, Christine Rholl who grew up in Alexandria, Virginia and is entering her junior year as a Math-Bio major at Bowdoin College. She deftly set about adding a final shot of compressed air to the inflated boat and we all carried the raft down to the river. There, we received a lesson in paddle commands (forward, back, left, right, . . .pretty basic . . .) and learned that the very first set of rapids would be the largest including a 12-foot waterfall. My heart skipped a beat thinking about going over a waterfall while our roller-coaster-loving girls applauded with excitement.
We were joined by the Pullen family — Mom, Dad, Anna (9) and Alexander (11)—from Plymouth, Massachusetts. After practicing our paddling and surviving (winning?) a rousing water fight with another nearby boat, we set off. The calm river soon gave way to a quicker current and we could hear the rushing water in the background. We soon approached Nesowadnehunk Falls. “Paddle forward!” shouted Christine over the roaring water. Paddle we did, with quickening heartbeats to match the current. “Hold on!” yelled Christine. Just as I grabbed the rope the raft went over the sloping 12-foot waterfall in a rush. All I could see was the rushing water in my face as we went over the falls and before we knew it we were at the bottom. My first instinct was to quickly look back to make sure that Calli and Kim Han were still in the raft; to my great relief, they were. In fact, all passengers were accounted for.
Christine took a quick survey: “What’d you think?” she asked. All the kids and men were in agreement that it was really fun and exciting. The Moms both agreed that it was scary (not for ourselves, but for the safety of our kids); another testament to the “Mom Factor,” a phenomenon I’m convinced keeps families safe and Moms in a constant state of vigilant apprehension.
We hung out at the falls watching other rafts go over and attempting to “surf” into the holes beneath the falls. We made multiple attempts at surfing: paddling up to the foaming water and positioning the boat precisely at the base of the falls. We were able to maintain the boat in position for only a second or two, but enjoyed the thrill at each pass.
From the falls, we floated on (relatively) calm water to the Nesowadnehunk Stream where we were treated to a slippery natural water slide. The hardest part was falling backward into a swirling pool then allowing the current to take you down the moss covered rock slide. Calli and Kim Han went together and came out smiling. With blind faith that the guides were right and it wouldn’t hurt, I fell into the water and rode the slide, which was fun until my nose and ears filled with water at the bottom. Well, okay, even that part was fun. Lincoln slid holding his waterproof video camera in the air the whole way (the resulting video footage was pretty watery!).
The next six miles of the lower Penobscot River offer calm waters. On the way, we learned more about how rapids are classified. Christine passed around granola bars, which were heartily accepted and, much to our relief, told us she has never flipped a raft. And then she added ” Yet” .We eventually passed under Abol Bridge and began seeing whitewater ahead.
Christine explained that we’d need to paddle our way through this set of Class 2 rapids and not hold on. We successfully navigated Abol Rapids and this time I even managed to keep my eyes open as we entered swirling holes and waves broke over the boat.
“Phew! That was scary, I almost fell out!” said little Anna from her perch on the raft’s edge. Her Mom encouraged her to sit in the middle of the boat for the next rapids. Christine agreed, and nicknamed her “Princess Pockawaukamus” after the upcoming rapids and the throne she’d assume in the middle of the boat.
Not too long after Abol, we came upon Little Pockwockamus rapids, a Class 2 set which I found exhilarating and not too scary. I realized I was growing accustomed to the “out-of-control-and-on-the-verge-of an-unwanted-swim” feeling which does not come easily to this conservative Mom.
As we approached the Big Pockwockamus Rapids, Christine encouraged Anna to move to her “Princess throne” in the middle of the boat where she could hang on more easily. Alexander moved to the front of the boat for a more thrilling ride and we entered the Class 3-4 rapids, the longest yet. We were all able to paddle through and emerge with big smiles on our very wet faces.
We ended the trip before lunch, and all pitched in to carry the raft 2/10 of a mile up to a waiting flatbed truck on the road, dodging poison ivy the whole way. We boarded buses which took us to a riverside lunch spot, complete with picnic tables and large grills, where we were treated to a welcomed lunch of grilled fish, pasta salad, rice and cookies. Everything tasted great after a thrilling day on the river.
As we drove home contemplating the trials of the week ahead, we felt a new sense of appreciation for the world around us. We were ready to face the challenges, whatever they were. Twenty four hours with New England Outdoor Center, a great night’s sleep and an exciting rafting trip did wonders for our heavy hearts.
When You Go
New England Outdoor Center offers a wide range of outdoor accommodations and adventures. Choose from small waterside cabins (sleep 2-6) and large cabins (sleeping up to 12) to Premium cabins (sleep up to 14) to Coveside Luxury Guest Houses (sleeps 8) at Twin Pine cabins. All cabins are pet-friendly too. A campground closer to Baxter State Park is also an option, offering campsites and bunkhouses.
NEOC operates year round with snowmobiling in the winter. Their guided summer adventures include a range of white water rafting trips, moose and wildlife tours and canoe, kayaking and hiking adventures.
The River Drivers Restaurant and Pub, the only fine-dining restaurant in the region, overlooks Millinocket Lake and offers everything from starters, sandwiches and salads to hearty entrees and delicious desserts. We highly recommend the Mocha Cheesecake. Of course, when in the shadow of Mount Katahdin, Maine’s tallest mountain, Katahdin beer, on tap here is a must-try for the over-21 crowd.
Family Impressions:
What was your favorite part of the rafting trip?
Calli:
“My favorite part was Nesowadnehunk Falls; it was the most intense. I saw big dips and a lot of cool patterns. I posted on my Facebook page that it was awesome”!
Kim Han
“I liked the obstacles (her name for rapids). They were thrilling and made me feel strong when we got through them. I want to try it again!”
Lincoln:
“My favorite was the rapids – that’s the exciting part. The Big Pockwockamus rapids were my favorite because they were the longest.”
Marti
“I liked the exhilaration of riding the rapids, but most of all I loved the catharsis of steering through nature’s obstacles and realizing that I could navigate them even if they were scary.”