EasternSlopes.com » Snow/Ice

Active Seniors: Becoming Eagle Scouts

Edie & Warner Shedd — Tue, 30 Mar 2010 15:21:35 +0000

Don’t be misled – we aren’t yet in our second childhoods, seeking Merit Badges! This is the real thing: searching for actual eagles. This little adventure began when we heard about an annual event in which volunteers went out to search for, and count, bald eagles. We were too late for the nationwide count, but learned that New Hampshire was the only state to hold its own late-season count about a month later. So, we phoned New Hampshire Audubon , which jointly sponsors this event with the New Hampshire Fish and Game Department, and spoke with biologist Chris Martin. We asked if there might be a site we could monitor which would involve some walking, so that we could get a little exercise and enjoy an outdoors experience. He responded that there was an eagles’ nest in Barnet, Vermont (New Hampshire owns the Connecticut River to the Vermont shore, so they count eagle sightings along the Vermont side close to the river), which might involve some walking, and sent us a map.

With map in hand, and armed with trekking poles (a good thing, as it turned out!) and binoculars, we arrived in Barnet on the appointed day. The map directed us to a farm road leading into a corn field along the river, with instructions to drive to the end of that road and then walk, all the while watching for eagles and checking to locate the nest. Unfortunately, the map lacked a scale, so we really couldn’t tell how far we had come on the farm road, which led to later confusion. Lesson one; always try to find out what the map scale is before you go out!

A nice day for a snowy walk, but not so great for seeing eagles! (Edie Shedd photo)

We found ourselves looking upriver at a field a hundred yards or so wide and stretching far into the distance, where we could dimly see what might be farm buildings a mile or two away. The river was to our right, while on the left were the railroad tracks, followed by a high, very steep slope covered with large pine trees; it was in one of those trees, near the top of the slope, that the nest was supposed to be located.

We consulted the map. It indicated that the nest was roughly opposite the upper end of a fairly sizeable island located in a moderate bend in the river. Edie thought that we were there, looking at the island, but Warner said that no, from his reading of the map, we were merely looking at the far bank of the river. And so, trekking poles in hand, we set out to hike up the field in search of the island.

We quickly found that the footing was truly nasty. The temperature was above freezing, so that the light coating of snow was crunchy but slippery. Added to that, there were strips and patches of even more slippery mud, while each corn row was slightly elevated, with sheared-off corn

A gray, forbidding day and a slippery cornfield make for a challenging walk! (Warner Shedd photo)

stalks about eight inches high! In that going, the trekking poles were a lifesaver. They gave us balance and helped to keep us from slipping; without them, walking would have been a near-nightmare. In retrospect, it might have been a good idea to have our YakTrax with us; in the future, we’ll carry them until the frost is out of the ground!

Even with the poles, walking was no picnic, but we progressed fairly steadily, though we stopped from time to time to look for eagles, or at least the rather flat-topped pine that had been described to us as the site of the nest. To add to the fun, it was snowing moderately, with fairly large, wet flakes that greatly hampered visibility.

After some time, we had seen nothing that looked like the bend where the island was located, and the river stretched ahead as straight as a string. Accordingly, we moved over to the riverbank edge of the field, the better to see through the shrubs and willows that lined the bank. Alas, we still had no indication of any island. By this time, our car was a tiny dot in the distance behind us, while ahead the farm buildings seemed no closer. Finally, an estimated three-quarter miles from the car (we really need to get a pedometer!), we decided that we must have come too far, and turned back. As we laboriously hiked our way back, we began to hear high pitched cries that we both thought might well emanate from our quarry. We tried to scan the skies with the binoculars, but the snow made visibility very poor. Still, we were encouraged to think that maybe there might be an eagle somewhere in the vicinity.

A small hint that there MIGHT be an eagle's nest in the area! (Warner Shedd photo)

When we arrived back at the car, we walked over to the river to see if the island might actually be there. Sure enough, there it was. Why hadn’t we done that in the first place? Because Warner said no, of course the island wasn’t there. He’s supposed to be the experienced outdoorsman, so Edie deferred to his judgment. Now he had to pay the price and listen to her heavy-handed humorous comments about his navigating ability. Sic transit gloria mundi! It will take Warner’s reputation some time to return to its former status – if ever.

Our heads were bloody, but still unbowed. After all, we had heard what we thought was likely an eagle, so we shifted to Plan B. In Gilbert and Sullivan’s Mikado, the Lord High Executioner sings, “My object all sublime, I shall achieve in time…” and that is precisely what we did. Chris Martin had included, with the map, the information that the eagles’ nest could be observed from a cemetery up on the high ground in Barnet village, so, with a sense of some good exercise accomplished, we drove up to the cemetery, which is of very modest size, unlike the cornfield! The weather started to improve as well; the snow stopped, the skies lightened, and it suddenly seemed like maybe, just maybe, our luck was going to turn.

There may be no thrill in nature greater than seeing a mature bald eagle! (Warner Shedd photo)

On walking into the cemetery, Edie quickly used the binoculars to zero in on a rather flat-topped pine just beyond the back edge of the cemetery. Then she triumphantly exclaimed, “There’s an eagle – isn’t it beautiful!” Sure enough, there in the upper portion of the pine was a huge nest – probably at least five feet wide – with a magnificent mature bald eagle, pure white head, great yellow beak, and all, sitting on one edge of it. What a thrill that was! A mature bald eagle is something special to behold, and we felt very fortunate to see it. It’s amazing how just seeing a creature like that can make us feel more connected to nature, and now we can’t wait to go back and see the chicks once they’ve hatched! We watched it for quite a while as it perched there, totally unconcerned about us. All in all, it was a great adventure: plenty of walking, a chance to become more familiar with the trekking poles, and that gorgeous eagle waiting for us at the end of the trip. As we headed home, we talked about what a change we’re already feeling; just a few trips, and we’re walking much farther, in more dificult conditions, and much more confident in our ability to get out and enjoy during the winter! Best of all, with spring coming, we’re going to be ready to try all sorts of things that we haven’t done for years, and all sorts of new ones. Of course, winter isn’t over quite yet…maybe we’ll find more to do before the snow goes away!

Cold Camp Comfort

Tim Jones — Mon, 29 Mar 2010 12:38:03 +0000

A vestibule on a winter tent provides a sheltered spot to cook and store extra gear. (Tim Jones photo)

Late winter/early spring is a wonderful time for camping. Only fall is better. My buddy and business partner David Shedd and I recently received some production samples from several manufacturers which absolutely HAD to be tested in snow and cold before they were returned: two pairs of snowshoes from MSR , a new gas canister stove from Jetboil, two sleeping bags (one from LL Bean rated to 20 degrees, the other from REI rated to 25), a new backpack and an LL Bean 3-person dome tent. An overnight in the White Mountain National Forest, at a backwoods campsite we often use in other seasons but had never visited in winter on a night when the forecasted low was 20 degrees seemed like the perfect chance to test everything.

It had been a l-o-n-g time since I’d done a “cold” winter campout. As I explained in a recent article article on Warm vs Cold Winter Camping, there’s “warm” winter camping, in which you have an external heat source such as a campfire or woodstove, and “cold” winter camping where you only carry a cooking stove. I’ve owned a Kifaru Tipi for over 20 years. With woodstove, it weighs about 18 pounds and is a perfect “warm” camping setup.

With this setup available, I’ve gotten out of the habit of “cold” camping. But “cold” winter camping is a lot like three-season backpacking and David and I have done enough of that so a “cold” winter camp was no stretch.

We shouldered our packs for an early start; a good thing. The winter wind and snow had heavily damaged the familiar trail and we spent a lot of time finding ways around fallen trees. Winter trail travel with snowshoes and a pack can be very slow, even on trails that are normally well-maintained in the summer—a fact we learned the hard way a few years ago. We’re careful not to tackle too much trail between the car and the campsite.

A sturdy dome tent like this one from LL Bean is easy to set up, makes a snug shelter for a winter overnight. (Tim Jones photo)

By noon we’d reached the campsite three miles from the car and had the tent up with sleeping gear laid out inside. David had already set the tent up at home (wise with anything new) so we knew all the parts were there and how it went together. Trust me, you don’t want to struggle with a new tent in a wilderness campsite in the cold!

Then, we were off through the woods to test snowshoes. With highly variable snow conditions—deep in some spots, crusted in the shade and soft in the sun—we gave them a real workout on flats, steeps and sidehills. Just walking in the woods in winter on good snowshoes is pure pleasure.

After all that walking, a late afternoon nap seemed a perfect way to test sleeping bags . . . A little later, legs still snugged in the sleeping bags, torsos warmed with puffy jackets and heads kept cozy with hats, we sipped wine and played a game of cribbage. I lost., as usual. Gear notes: I have a folding neoprene cribbage board that adds almost no weight and very little bulk to a deck of cards. I got it at EMS years ago, they no longer carry it, and if anyone knows a source for these, let me know! On another note, the fingerless fleece Glacier Gloves designed for fishing are great for playing cards, cooking and reading in a winter tent!

Hearty, hot food goes a long way toward keeping you warm in a "cold" winter camp. (Tim Jones photo)

Speaking of tents, the LL Bean Backcountry Dome 3 Tent performed admirably. At $329 it’s about half the price of some similar models from “name” manufacturers. It’s heavy at almost 11 pounds, but solid and stable; the 5-pole design should withstand a heavy snow load, though that will require more testing–it didn’t snow while we were out, darn it!. The dome design pitched easily with color-coded, shock-corded poles and well designed clips. Rated as a 3-person, it was luxurious for two, would fit three snugly. The extended vestibule provided protected cooking space and gear storage, yet zipped wide open on both sides for easy access. Good venting, good zippers, a full coverage fly, interior pockets, peak clip for hanging an led lantern, even a clothes line. The clips which hold the tent body to the poles were stiff and uncooperative with cold. mittened hands on a cold morning, so we just popped the pole ends out of the retaining grommets and slid the poles out instead of unclipping them. Workable solution to a very minor problem. Overall, this is a solid rendering of the classic dome tent design very functional and a terrific winter tent for the price.

A mug of hot tea before you get out of your sleeping bag on a chilly winter morning, makes getting up that much more pleasant. (David Shedd photo)

Stew for supper heated quickly (a little too quickly, some of it burned–still tasted wonderful!) on the new stove. To see a full review of how it performed, go here. Then it was time to head out for a last look at the millions of stars overhead before giving the sleeping bags a more serious test through the 20-degree night. You can read the results of this test here.

No doubt about it, getting up in the morning is tougher in a cold camp without that woodstove to warm things up. But we had the Helios stove set up in the tent vestibule and enjoyed hot tea and a light breakfast while we were still in the sleeping bags. That makes getting up a lot easier.

Once moving, it took us less than an hour to break camp and hit the trail. With “cold” winter camping you can be on the move almost as quickly as you could in the summertime. By mid morning we were enjoying a second breakfast in a café.

They call it “cold” camping, but if you do it right with the right equipment, it isn’t . . . Try it yourself sometime.

“Shoulder Season” Synthetics: REI +25 Lumen & L.L. Bean +20 Katahdin Sleeping Bags

David Shedd — Sat, 27 Mar 2010 16:19:18 +0000

Most people tend to think of camping as either “winter” or “summer.” But, the fact is that while those are just the high points, there are a lot of great trips to be had in the in-between times. In the winter, you have short days; in the summer, you’ve got leaves, which block the view, and bugs. Lots of bugs, in some places. Plus, a lot more hikers, so less privacy.

Beautiful bargain bags...but do they perform? (David Shedd photo)

“Shoulder season” is a term from the tourism industry to describe the times when weather and tourist counts are sort of iffy, but it’s worth being open. The same term works pretty well to cover early spring and late fall, so get used to seeing it here!

Arguably the most important choice that you’ll make to thoroughly enjoy shoulder season camping is your sleeping bag. Temperatures and conditions vary widely; you can go to bed at 60 degrees, and wake up at 10. One minute it can be sunny, the next rainy. How can you possibly plan for that???

In our experience, the best solution is a bag rated in the +20/25 degree range. With a little effort, it’ll keep you comfortable down to the 10 degree range, but if the weather turns warm and it’s 50 all night long, keeping the zipper open will keep you comfortable. We also like synthetics for shoulder season camping; with the likelihood of rain, snow, or major sweat, having that safety net of warmth-when-wet gives synthetic fills a real advantage over down.

Since, for a lot of people, this is a bag that won’t get used as much as their summer bag and price counts, we wondered if any of the bargain bags out there are really any good? A quick search showed two very promising choices, both relatively new to the market. The REI +25 Lumen and the L.L. Bean +20 Katahdin both sell at full retail for the bargain price of $139, and weigh within 2 ounces of each other (on our scale, the Lumen comes in at 2 lbs 11 ounces without stuff sack; the Bean at 2 lbs 13 ounces). Can either of them perform well enough to give you an enjoyable shoulder season sleeping experience?

So, we asked for test samples. Out of the box, they’re both beauties. The Lumen is a two-tone blue, with the typical REI attention to detail. Included is a handy little zippered pocket so you can find your headlamp or “necessaries” in the middle of the night, and loops on the bottom side to attach to your sleeping pad if you’re a “roller”. Fit and finish is what we’ve come to expect from REI; no loose seams, hanging threads, anything like that. The LL Bean Katahdin is a burnt orange (be careful in fall camping; you might get mistaken for an extra-large maple leaf), with finish quality matching the REI. Both bags have a box toe area for comfort. The one detail that’s dramatically different, though, is that the L.L. Bean bag has a draft collar; the Lumen doesn’t. At this temperature range, that’s something we’d normally expect to see in a bag. But, the Lumen has been through the new EN13537 testing to prove its rating, so it should perform. There’s only one way to find out…into the woods!

We got lucky, having a perfect night to test bags with this temperature rating. At bedtime, the outdoors temperature was 30 degrees; in the morning, it was 20. A water bottle inside the tent had flecks of ice in the morning, so we clearly had sub-freezing temperatures, but not enough to make a whole bottle freeze solid. In other words, a typical 25ish degree night!

Wilson, our newest employee, shows the shallow nature of the Katahdin's hood (David Shedd photo)

I crawled into the Katahdin and snugged everything down. The bag fit nicely and felt cozy; however, the hood was a pain in the neck. As “Wilson” clearly shows, the hood is a little shallow; I couldn’t easily get it down over my forehead, and when I did, it was hard to get the other end up to my chin. If I fully snugged it down, it worked fine, but it’s a detail area that Bean needs to work on. The zipper is another area that was mildly irritating; it had a tendency to get snagged. Not the end of the world, particularly in a bag of this price…if the bag performs. The draft collar, on the other hand, was perfect, wide enough to easily snug down around my neck without making me feel trapped. Once settled in…asleep I went!

Like Wilson, I couldn't get my forehead covered, but was cozy warm anyway (Tim Jones photo)

And stayed that way, until Tim woke me up around midnight. He’d crawled into the Lumen, and didn’t feel warm, so added more layers of clothing…and still didn’t feel warm. 4 hours later, he’d been sleeping very little, so decided it was time to make me miserable, too. We compared notes, then traded bags…we wanted to make sure that it wasn’t that he just happened to be sleeping cold for some reason. Into the Lumen I got, and settled in, pulling

Notice how much deeper Wilson sits in the excellent REI hood, and how close the top of the bag is to his "chin". (David Shedd photo)

the excellent hood tight (we’ve noticed before in the Halo/Radiant test that REI has hood design down to an art), and noticing that the zipper was MUCH easier to use than the Bean version; kudos to REI on that! Tim cozied into the Katahdin; 15 minutes later, he’s comfortably snoring away…and I’m cold. What in the world is going on here??? I added my down puffy, my down booties, and threw a disposable handwarmer down in the foot area, and was able to reach an equilibrium where I was cool, but at least not shivering.

The hood fits, and Tim's face is well furred...but he's still frigid. (David Shedd photo)

Clearly, the Lumen was not living up to its +25 rating in real world conditions, in spite of the laboratory testing. Could it be something quirky about its Thermowave insulation, a type we weren’t able to find anything out about? All we know is that it’s a continuous filament insulation, as is the PrimaLoft Infinity that the Katahdin uses. Both use shingle construction to eliminate cold spots, so there shouldn’t be a difference there. The only thing that we can both think of is that the EN13537 testing system is possibly flawed, and doesn’t take into account the movement of people in real life situations (our full assessment can be found here). Would the Lumen perform better with the simple addition of a draft collar? While we can’t know without a side-by-side test of one with and one without, our belief is that yes, that’s a major problem.

Ulitmately, here’s our assessment of the two bags. The L.L. Bean Katahdin +20 is a flat-out bargain. It performs to its rated temperature easily, is light and compressible, and better built than expected for the price. Improvements to the hood and zipper would make it an outstanding bag, regardless of price. The REI Lumen +25? Unfortunately, we can’t recommend it for that temperature range. Ergonomically, it wins easily, and might be a winner in a test of +35 bags…but we wouldn’t use it ourselves if we had any concerns about the temperature dropping below freezing. Our gut says that it was designed to meet the testing norm…and that the test is flawed, causing the bag to not perform to the stated temperature rating.

X-C The Way It Used To Be

Tim Jones — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 21:31:54 +0000

Dexter's is a a quaint country inn, snow, and miles of beautiful cross-country trails for "classic" skiing. What more could you ask for? (Tim Jones photo)

Once upon a time all “Nordic” or cross-country skiing took place wherever there was snow. The only tracks were the ones laid down by the first skier of the morning, the only “grooming” took place when skiers sidestepped or herringboned up a hill. One of my first jobs, in fact, was to go out after every snowstorm and lay down tracks on a couple of kilometers of cross-country trails through the woods and sidestep up the steeper portions so paying customers could have an easier time of it. Wish I could still make money doing that . . .

Then came the idea of machine-groomed trails with or without one set of pre-laid tracks. The first cross-country ski “groomer” I ever saw in action was a snowmobile that would now be considered an antique, towing a homemade contraption of chicken wire and 2×4s which smoothed the snow and laid down a set of tracks to kick and glide along in . . .

This simple notion eventually evolved into cross-country ski trails with parallel sets of tracks for “classic” kick-and-glide skis, and, with the advent of skate skiing, to cross-country trails as wide as super highways with two or more tracked lanes and a groomed middle lane wide enough for skate skiers to pass each other.

It’s sort of like the evolution of Alpine skiing, where climbing the hill to earn your turns gave way to rope tows and Poma lifts, then double chairs which eventually evolved into today’s high-speed detachable quads, six-packs and gondolas.

When there’s snow enough, there’s infinite backcountry where the only tracks you see are the ones made by squirrels and the skier in front of you. And there are also plenty of places with wide, perfectly groomed trails. I gave you a list of some of my favorites awhile back.

But are there still any “retro” cross country ski venues that supply all the comforts (like a place to warm up and re-fuel) and still do just enough grooming to allow you to let your skis sing without racing on a superhighway?

The answer is, most definitely, Yes!

No skate skis allowed! The trails around Dexter's are groomed for "classic" skiing only. (Tim Jones photo)

This past winter, I went exploring and discovered the Norsk Cross Country Trails at Dexter’s Inn in Sunapee, NH . This is a lovely old inn located close to alpine skiing at Mount Sunapee in Newbury, N.H.

On their website they state very clearly that they groom for “classic” kick-and-glide skiing, not skate style. And the only skis they rent are longer touring skis—none of these newfangled short racing ski models. My Alpina Discovery Backcountry skis were perfect.

There weren’t any other skiers braving the storm at the Dexter’s Inn/Norsk Cross Country Trails, but these snowshoers were out early enjoying the new snow and getting some exercise. (Tim Jones photo)

It was snowing hard as I drove up. This was only two days after a “hurricane” that had left much of southern New Hampshire without electricity. The trail crew had already cleared branches and fallen trees and groomed about eight kilometers of trail. After getting my trail pass ($10) I hit the tracks and really stretched out to warm up, covering all the trails they had groomed through the quiet woodlands. Then I went exploring slowly and carefully (I was skiing alone) on some of the trails that hadn’t been cleared and groomed yet. From all I could see, this is a lovely trail system that could keep you exploring new routes for a couple of days, at least.

Beautiful, quiet woodland trails, pleasing scenery whenever the snow stopped, it was a perfect morning of cross-country skiing. There’s still plenty of snow and some time for you to “go retro” this winter. Life isn’t a spectator sport. Get out and enjoy!

More Retro Options

If you use classic touring skis and like the “Retro XC” idea, I can think of two more places right off hand that you might really enjoy.

The Landgrove Inn in Landgrove, Vermont (which is about as off-the-beaten patch as you can get and still be in southern Vermont) is another lovely, quiet country inn with a very nice snowmobile-groomed “classic” trail system (and a terrific dining room!) Marilyn and I stayed there one February when it was raining too hard to ski and we still enjoyed ourselves, so imaging how much fun it would be with snow!

Medawisla Morning. There are miles and miles of classic ski opportunities at the AMC Maine camps. (Tim Jones photo)

The other tremendous option are the wilderness camps that the AMC runs in Maine. Medawisla, Little Lyford and partner West Branch Pond Camps all offer excellent “retro” cross country skiing right around the camps, and you can even ski from camp to camp if you wish (they’ll move your luggage for you!) They will be opening a new camp—Gorman Chairback— in 2011, which will make the experience even better. This is a real adventure, one everyone should try sometime.

I’m sure there are dozens of other “Retro XC” opportunities out there! If you know of others, please send me an email (timjones@easternslopes.com)!

Active Seniors: Snowshoeing At Trapp Family Lodge

Edie & Warner Shedd — Mon, 15 Mar 2010 18:22:23 +0000

The Trapp Family Lodge brings European charm to Vermont (Warner Shedd photo)

Thanks, at least in part, to The Sound of Music, everyone in this part of the world – and a lot of the rest of the world, too – knows about the Trapp family. And, it happens that the Trapp Family Lodge is in Stowe, Vermont, which is less than an hour’s drive from us. The family, their lodge, and things such as their network of cross country ski trails have assumed iconic status. When a very good friend told us how much fun she had cross country skiing there, it planted an idea in our heads.

We – and Warner in particular – used to do some cross country skiing in the woods around our home, but it became tough slogging for us, since we constantly had to break trail, usually in soft, deep snow. The idea of groomed trails appealed, except that Edie was too afraid that she’d fall and break a bone. Skiing was not the only option, though: what about snowshoes, particularly with poles?

At one time, Warner did a ton of snowshoeing while working as a forester. These were with old wooden-frame shoes with varnished rawhide webbing. He always used the long, narrow variety with a substantial upturn on the front, variously known as Alaska or pickerel snowshoes. They served him very well, but there was no denying that the all-leather harnesses were often a royal pain. Going up a steep grade, for example, the heel strap would stretch as his foot slipped backwards. Then, as his foot shifted forward going downhill, the loosened heel strap would frequently come off, necessitating a halt to tighten everything up again! Fast forward a great many years, and we purchased modern, aluminum frame snowshoes with plastic decking. These performed admirably except for one thing; despite a distinct improvement in the harnesses, they were still a pain to put on and take off. Edie, in particular had great difficulty in properly adjusting her harnesses each time, and the snowshoes gradually languished in our storage shed.

A new era had dawned, however, as we read about the ease of using the latest versions of snowshoe harnesses. Well, we thought, why not head for Trapp Family Lodge, where snowshoe rentals are available, and try the new wonders on groomed trails? And so, on a beautiful sunny morning, we found ourselves en route. On the way, we were treated to some gorgeous views of Mount Mansfield, Vermont’s highest peak. With its upper reaches gleaming a brilliant, white, Mansfield was in its most resplendent finery.

Modern snowshoes are much smaller and easier to use than older styles! (Warner Shedd photo)

We chose to arrive at mid-morning on a weekday, on the theory that the trails were likely to be less crowded then. When we pulled into the parking lot by the Trapp Outdoor Center, our theory was proven correct, for it was only half full. Inside the Center, we were directed downstairs to the area where rental snowshoes and skis were available. A young lady greeted us, and we told her what we were looking for. She proved to be not only extremely friendly and helpful, but also knowledgeable and professional. In short order she outfitted us with Tubbs Venture 25 snowshoes equipped with React bindings. Along with these went Rossignol ski poles for Edie and Leki poles for Warner. Then she showed us how to work the bindings, which proved to be a revelation. All we needed to do was push a foot all the way forward in the binding, pull on two straps on the top of the boot, flip a little plastic lever on each to lock the straps, and then put a strap around the heel and fasten it tightly. This can be done almost as fast as you can read this paragraph!

We then inquired about relatively flat trails that we could navigate easily, and were directed to go out on the Fox Track Trail, then back on the Sugar Road Trail. An excellent map was also provided for our guidance. With that, we went outside and put on the snowshoes. They went on as easily as they had in the shop, and we set forth. After about a hundred yards, the heel strap slipped off on Warner’s right boot. This was likely due to the fact that he was wearing “Bean boots”. The heel area of these is soft, which meant that the heel strap simply needed to be tightened an extra notch; a firmer boot, like Edie’s, would make it a little easier to use the snowshoe bindings. After that one glitch, though, the harnesses were perfectly secure.

Getting lost at the Trapp Family Lodge just isn't an option, thanks to excellent signage (Warner Shedd photo)

This trail was in the open for the first two or three hundred yards, then entered the woods – a pretty area of maples and birches. Occasionally someone on skis came up from behind and passed us, or we met skiers heading back toward the Visitor Center. The groomed trail was about 14 feet wide, so there was plenty of room for us without interfering in any way with the skiers. The terrain was quite flat, with only occasional small rises or descents. This made the walking easy and pleasant, and we took our time in order to enjoy the scenery and the experience…perfect for beginners! The land sloped downhill to our left, and we could catch occasional glimpses of skiers – and a fellow snowshoer – below us on the Sugar Road.

Along the trail we encountered something that we had never seen before – skiers towing tiny sleds that contained a baby or very young child, snugly enclosed in its own little cabin. Why, we asked each other, hadn’t someone thought of such a clever arrangement when our children were little? Apparently, it’s not just snowshoes that have improved!

"Maria's Bench" welcomes you to relax. Notice the sap buckets on the trees behind! (Warner Shedd photo)

When we reached the junction of the Sugar Road, it was perfect timing for turning around; unaccustomed to snowshoes, Edie was beginning to feel a little leg strain, and didn’t want to push too hard at this early stage in our adventures. As we turned back along the Sugar Road, the reason for the name became obvious: here there were some larger sugar maples, and these were hung with buckets to collect the sap for making that delectable golden syrup. Near one of them was a bench and a sign that read “Maria Plaza.” This, we realized, was the spot where Maria, the matriarch of the von Trapp family, used to come during her later years to enjoy the peace, quiet, and beauty of nature. That inspired us to stop for a few moments to do the same.

Snowshoers and XC skiers share the beauty of the day (Warner Shedd photo)

As we emerged from the woods and approached the Visitor Center, we could see that the parking lot had filled up greatly in the short while that we had been absent. Already there were many more skiers headed out, and we were glad we’d decided to come mid-morning on a weekday. One of the advantages of being retired; we can do what we want when we want! While there was no conflict with the skiers, it was certainly easier to snowshoe the trails when we didn’t have to be concerned about getting in their way.

The snowshoes and poles had performed admirably. The Tubbs Venture 25s are small snowshoes, making them easy to walk in and ideal for a groomed trail. One particularly nice feature of these snowshoes (and larger models, as well) is a set of toothed metal grippers on the underside, which keeps the snowshoes from slipping in all sorts of going. Warner, remembering all too well the days of slipping and sliding on steep slopes with the old-fashioned snowshoes, thought that these were an enormous improvement! If you’re thinking about getting snowshoes for yourself, you might want to read EasternSlopes.com’s snowshoe test.

It’s difficult to tell how far we traveled; maybe we should get pedometers! However, the round trip on the two trails probably amounted to something like three-quarters of a mile. As it turned out, Edie was wise to limit the distance on this first outing with snowshoes; that night she developed a cramp on the inside of one thigh – the product, no doubt, of walking a bit differently while wearing the unfamiliar snowshoes. Lesson learned…don’t push too much too soon while you’re getting back into shape, or trying something new!

After returning the snowshoes, we decide that we deserved a little treat, so we took ourselves off to the Trapp’s Tea House. There we enjoyed some excellent coffee, delicious roast beef sandwiches, and very friendly service. Warner ended up by sinning greatly: he simply couldn’t resist a piece of the wonderful Black Forest cake! It was nice to learn that the food at the Trapp Family Lodge lives up to everything else we encountered there.

Looking back on the trip, we agreed that snowshoes on a groomed trail are an excellent way to get out and enjoy the winter scenery. This can be as easy or as physically challenging as you wish, depending on the trail(s). Going to the Trapp Family Lodge, or some place that rents snowshoes and can show you how to use them, is a great way to see how it will work for you. It also led us to think about snowshoeing off-trail near our home. We’re going to look into the possibility of replacing the present bindings on our own snowshoes with a set of the React bindings, or simply getting new ’shoes. Then, with the much greater ease of putting them on and taking them off , we’ll be a lot more apt to get out and exercise in the winter woods. It’s amazing how, after only a couple of little trips, we’re starting to see all sorts of possibilities for both exercise and fun, even in the winter!

Introducing “Active Seniors”: The Woodbury Walk

Edie & Warner Shedd — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 23:59:06 +0000

(Publisher’s note: Edie & Warner are my parents, and are in their mid-70s. Over the past few years, they’ve gotten less active, particularly in the winter, which of course worries me. My father, particularly, has always been an active outdoorsman, and I hate to see him give that up! So, we talked about it. One of the issues was them feeling secure about walking in snow and ice. I supplied an immediate solution in the form of trekking poles and “creepers”, which led to the adventure below. Hopefully, there are many more to come!

As Tim and I discussed what my parents are doing, we realized that other seniors face the same issues as Edie & Warner. We are hoping that bringing their adventures, problems, ideas and solutions to EasternSlopes.com might help others to start having the kind of fun that my parents are having. So . . . welcome to Active Seniors! We hope you enjoy it and pass it on to people who can use it! Please give us your feedback with ideas for them to try, things you’d like to see, anything you’d like to see done differently. If you’ve got something you’d like to write about, let us know…we’d love to publish articles from other active seniors. On with the story!)

What seems like a long distance turns out to be within reach, thanks to trekking poles! (Warner Shedd photo)

We’ve been wanting to get more exercise, particularly during the winter months. But, we live in a very rural area, which doesn’t always make winter exercise easy. For example, we live on a dirt road with a steep driveway down to it; it’s fine for cars, but it can be very treacherous for a pedestrian. The snow is packed and glazed into virtual ice, and an unwary step on a spot without sand can lead to a very nasty fall!

Son David suggested using trekking poles to help stabilize walking and avoid falls, and loaned us some of his. He also brought up some YakTrax, which slip on easily over our boots and give us traction on the ice. We started carrying them and the poles in the car with us wherever we went, just in case an opportunity for adventure presented itself.

Edie, the "early adopter", is first on the ice. (Warner Shedd photo)

One sunny day, we were driving past Woodbury Lake, only a few miles from home, a place we’ve driven by hundreds of times in the winter. But we’ve never stopped…what would be the point? This time, we saw a number of ice fishermen trying their luck out on the pond, and Warner, who had done quite a bit of ice fishing over the years, said “Hey, want to go see if the fish are biting?” Edie said, “ Why not? It’s a good chance to try out our trekking poles,” so we pulled into the state fishing access area, parked, and off we went!

We got the trekking poles out of the trunk, and, checking the situation at the edge of the pond, found that the ice was covered by three or four inches of crunchy, crusty snow. We had our YaxTrax creepers with us, but without any bare ice, there was no need for them…still, we tucked them into our pockets, just in case we found ice later! With poles in hand, we set out on our first adventure.

Truth to tell, Warner had been reluctant for some time to use trekking poles; he thought that they were only for “old” people, and thinking about using them made him feel feeble; neither of us feel old! However, when he found out that David and Tim Jones, both extremely energetic and fit, used the poles constantly on their outdoor adventures, his attitude quickly changed. Edie, who loftily claimed – correctly, of course – that she was far more sensible and he was being silly, was not in the least averse to trying the poles. So, we set out across the snow-covered ice and quickly discovered the virtues of using trekking poles: they greatly improved our balance, made walking easier, and also provided some upper body exercise. Plus, they provided a real feeling of security, letting us relax and have much more fun!

Distances over open spaces can be deceiving, and even though the ice fishermen seemed far away, it turned out to really be just a short walk. Now, there’s a peculiar thing about ice fishermen: they are mostly a very friendly and gregarious lot, quite different from many of their warm weather compatriots (Editor’s note: What’s NOT peculiar about ice fishermen? Think about standing on the ice for hours at a time, freezing your fanny off and waiting for a fish to swim by and notice your bait…that’s supposed to be a NORMAL activity?) . In summer, anglers are apt to frown on company and disapprove of those who fish too close to them, but ice fishermen don’t seem to care about such niceties. Their motto seems to be “The More the Merrier.” Maybe they congregate to try to stay warm like Emperor Penguins!

Generous with their time, if not with their fish! (Warner Shedd photo)

One friendly group gathered around an ice shanty was glad to chat with us and admitted that the fishing had been pretty slow. Nonetheless, they had hauled in one impressively sleek, plump brown trout 17 inches long – a fine meal for one of them. We weren’t able to talk them into letting a poor, feeble old couple take it home for dinner, darn it!

Others seemed to be having a similarly slow day. However, when we headed back to the car, after walking around for a time in order to get more exercise, we encountered a young man who had brought his little daughter – probably about 3 years old – on a sled. While she watched, he pulled out a couple of perch, which was a good start on a tasty meal. It reminded us of going out with our kids when they were young (although our fishing & camping trips always seemed to teeter on the ragged edge of disaster!), and made us think that with our grandkids in their 20s, maybe one of these days we’d be bringing our great-grandchildren out for a walk on the lake!

When we reached our car, we both agreed that we were impressed by the trekking poles. It’s hard to estimate distances on open water or ice, but we probably walked for better than half a mile. Maybe it’s time to look into pedometers; it would be nice to know how far we’d gone! The poles had made walking easier, safer, and more pleasant, and we look forward to more expeditions. Even though we didn’t need to use the YakTrax, having them in our pockets made us feel confident that we wouldn’t run into anything we couldn’t handle out there. Being prepared has totally changed the way we’re seeing our world now; we’d never thought of walking on Woodbury Lake before. Who knows what other ideas we’ll come up with! And, who knows what ideas you’ll come up with? Through our adventures, we’ll try to find places, products, and ideas that will help you to get out there and enjoy the way we’re beginning to!

Backcountry Skiing Basics

Tim Jones — Sat, 06 Mar 2010 15:26:35 +0000

Snaked! If you aren’t the first one to the top of the hill, you can’t be the first one down! (Tim Jones photo)

There comes a point in most winters, sometimes earlier, sometimes later, but usually sometime, somewhere, when enough snow has fallen that the whole world becomes a playground for anyone with snowshoes, Nordic backcountry skis, or, if it’s steep enough, Tele or AT/Randonee skis with skins. In a good year, that little spruce you see poking through the snow might just be the top of a four or five-foot tall tree . . .

Since snow depths always vary from place to place, you may have to travel to find the deepest snow. At the particular moment I’m writing this, the Adirondacks has lots of snow and more falling. Other times, it’s Vermont, New Hampshire, Maine or Quebec. Wherever you have to go to find deep snow, it’s worth it.

Lots of snow means you can get off the packed trails of a cross-country ski area and into the woods to explore on snowshoes or cross-country skis. That’s a real adventure for most people. You don’t have to go far—a few acres of woods with no other human tracks in it can become a magic place when the world is all white.

The only problem is, you never know when the deep snow is going to arrive and how long it’s going to last. So you have to be willing to take advantage of it when it it’s there. Sometimes, you just get lucky and have both the snow and the means to explore it safely. I’m pretty comfortable in the backcountry, but I also love going with companions who know more than I do.

A couple of years ago, we happened to be at Trapp Family Lodge in Stowe, Vermont, in the middle of a huge December snowstorm. Trapp’s is definitely one of the nicest places in the world to be in a blizzard. In the raging storm, with snow dumping quickly enough to fill in your tracks in minutes, we skied up to Slayton Pasture Cabin, ate a warm lunch, and skied back down through knee-deep powder. Heaven!

Jan Axtell breaks trail through waist-deep snow on a backcountry ski tour near Stowe, Vermont. (Tim Jones photo)

As the storm wound down the next day, I headed out to explore some backcountry skiing north of Stowe with Jan (pronounced Yan) Axtell of Fin & Feather Enterprises . Jan is on the ski patrol at Stowe, and whenever he can, introduces ordinary folks to the wonders of off-trail backcountry touring. He’ll tailor the adventure to your ability level, anything from an easy loop through quiet woodlands to a headlong plunge on Tele gear through the trees on slopes so steep they will scare you spitless.

Ours was, at my request, a “soft” adventure, about five hours of trekking through gorgeous woodlands with the post-blizzard wind howling on the ridges above us. We didn’t tackle anything steep. Using wide backcountry skis with fishscale bases, we eased our way along with Jan breaking trail through, at times, waist-deep snow and me plodding along behind.

It was a chance to get completely away from other people, something pretty rare in today’s world. If you’ve never tried backcountry touring, a guided trip like this is an excellent introduction. Jan knew the country, had all the skills to get us in an out safely.

Making Tracks. The chance to ski untracked powder like this on the Alexandria Ski Trail on Cardigan Mountain in New Hampshire is the reason backcountry skiers crave snow. (Tim Jones photo)

You don’t always get that lucky–snow is never guaranteed. Last year, my sweetheart Marilyn and I were scheduled to do a backcountry ski trek from the top of Gore Mountain in North Creek, New York to Garnet Hill Lodge XC Center in North River. This is an all-day guided backcountry excursion for intermediate skiers and above.

Unfortunately a hard, warm overnight rain and refreeze took away most of the snow and turned what was left to boilerplate. So we postponed. I’m scheduled to try again in mid-March of 2010 and hoping the snow they have now will be even deeper then. That’s the problem. Deep snow NEVER lasts long enough.

Backcountry Tele

Four intrepid Telemarkers head up the Alexandria Ski Trail on Cardigan Mountain. The climb up makes coming down even more rewarding! (Tim Jones photo)

I have to admit I’m a little frustrated. I’ve spent several years getting good enough on Telemark gear to be able to go into the backcountry and ski some steeps and trees. I started practicing on groomed ski slopes and, smart guy that I am, took some lessons with great instructors. I’m not great–or even good–yet, but I can survive. And I’m able to put the Black Diamond STS skins on my Karhu Tele skis and get myself up the hill in fine fashion, even if I still have some less-than-elegant moments coming down

Last winter, a wonderful storm in mid January while we were at the AMC New Hampshire Chapter’s Winter Workshop let me actually try backcountry Telemarking.

My group of two instructors and three students, put skins on our skis and headed up the Alexandria Ski Trail almost to the summit of Cardigan Mountain. Skinning up was hard work, the trail was steep and long, the snow deep, and even relatively lightweight Telemark skis, boots, and skins get heavy. Still, we made it up, ate lunch on an overlook below the exposed summit, and watched the wind tear blue holes in the clouds above. Absolutely beautiful—and all the more so for having earned it with our own efforts.

It took a couple of hours to skin up and only a few minutes to fly back down in the deep powder. But those few minutes were among the most memorable in a lifetime on skis for me. I’m a confirmed backcountry addict.

The only problem is, we haven’t had the snow this winter to make much backcountry exploration possible. At least not in spots I’ve been able to be . . . But there’s still time. March is traditionally the snowiest month in the northeast. And if not, there’s always next year!

Tim’s Favorite Places To XC

Tim Jones — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 18:37:28 +0000

Cross country skiing will make you wish winter was much longer! (Tim Jones photo)

There’s snow on the ground, sun in the sky, and this is the perfect time of year to get out on cross-country skis. If you aren’t a cross-country skier already, what are you waiting for? It’s safe, easy to learn, and great exercise for folks of all fitness levels. Take up cross-country skiing now and, instead of grumping around for the next month, you’ll be sorry to see the snow melt in spring.

Cross-country skiing doesn’t require nearly as much snow (or as much money) as alpine. What follows is not a comprehensive list, but rather some personal favorites where I’ve actually skied. Try any of them this winter: good times guaranteed:

Great Glen is great for skiers of all ages (Tim Jones photo)

The Great Glen Trails Outdoor Center in Gorham, N.H. is one of my all-time favorites with phenomenal views, an extensive network of trails ranging from super-easy to “Oh-My-God” challenging. They’ve got the unique “Snow Coach” service which takes you 4.5 miles up the Mount Washington Auto Road to tree line, and lets you ski back down.

If you want to stay overnight and ski the next day, I recommend the AMC’s Joe Dodge Lodge where they feed you a great family-style breakfast and dinner in the company of other active outdoors enthusiasts. If you must have a private bath, head back down to Jackson where they’ve lodging and dining options galore.

Another personal favorite in New Hampshire is the Waterville Valley Nordic Center in Waterville Valley. Great trails, lots of lodging and dining options

The sound of skinny skis! Wide trails through the woods is one of the main attractions a the Trapp Family Lodge

Vermont has many, many cross country options and I haven’t skied all of them. But my personal favorite is the Trapp Family Lodge in Stowe, Vermont. It’s not surprising that their cross-country network is among my favorites. Trapp’s was the first true cross-country ski resort in the U. S. , starting in 1968 (the year I first cross-country skied!). Currently, they groom about 45 km for both tracks and skate skiing, make snow on seven or eight km (more than any other resort in New England, I believe) and mark another 100 km of backcountry ski and snowshoe trails. . . .

If you’re skiing Trapp’s for the first time, make the Slayton Pasture Cabin your goal. It’s about 5km from the main lodge via the very steep Cabin Trail or almost 6 km by the route along Sugar Road, then up (and up, and more up) the not-so-steep Parizo Trail and across the mountain’s shoulder on the far end of Cabin Trail.

The wide open spaces at Ole's give you marvelous views. (Tim Jones photo)

My other favorites in Vermont are the lovely Mountain Top Inn in Chittenden, Vermont, which is about 11 miles and lightyears in attitude away from Killington, and a perfect romantic weekend getaway spot with wonderful trails and a world-class sledding hill. Ole’s Cross Country Ski Center in Warren, Vermont, which has its core trails on what is an airport in the summer–wide open spaces with wonderful views of Sugarbush.

Two more of my cross-county favorites are over in New York. Garnet Hill Lodge XC Center in North River NY has a wonderful rustic lodge, good food, and miles of trails—including one you can ski down from the top of Gore Mountain.

Then, up in Lake Placid the Olympic Sports Complex at Mt. Van Hoevenberg is truly world-class. Olympic quality racers ski there all the time. It’s also the only spot where ordinary citizens get to try out the fiendishly tough sport of biathlon. When we are in Lake Placid, my sweetheart Marilyn and I usually luxuriate at the Mirror Lake Inn or the very-comfortable Crowne Plaza . . .

There are so many places to cross country ski. So go, try it. Take a lesson if you need to. Start on an easy trail but start somewhere. Life isn’t a spectator sport. Get out and enjoy!

I Love Golf (Courses, That is!)

Some of the very best cross-country ski centers are set up on golf courses. As far as I’m concerned, they could skip the golf . . . though I suppose it’s something to do in the summer . . . Cross-country ski centers on golf courses (almost) always have very gentle, rolling hills and smooth trails –perfect for learning.

Cross country skiing near Boston? You better believe it! Weston Ski Track in Weston, Mass. gets more snow in some years than some northern areas, and has snowmaking when Mother nature doesn’t cooperate.

That's Okemo Mountain Resort in the backgropund at the Okemo Nordic Center (Marilyn Donnelly photo)

In Maine, try the Bethel Inn for a lovely setting, on the edge of a charming New England village with views across the Androscoggin River valley to the mountains of Western Maine! (Nice place to stay, too!)

If you are in the Sunapee or Upper Valley regions of New Hampshire, check out the golf-course trails at Eastman Cross Country Center in Grantham, NH. Not as flat as most golf courses!

Okemo Nordic Center in Ludlow, Vermont is a wonderful golf-course-based cross county ski center and a great escape from Okemo.

The Best Of Both Worlds!

These three areas have the best of both worlds: lovely, open, easy golf-course trails and more challenging, steeper trails through the trees.

The combination of flat golf courses and high hills gives The Balsams Resort skiers the best of both worlds! (Tim Jones photo)

Balsams Wilderness in Dixville Notch, N.H., is isolated and absolutely lovely, the Balsams Grand Hotel right there!

Another of my golf-course-plus favorites is the Bretton Woods Nordic Center in Bretton Woods, N.H. The new owners are hoping to have people refer to this historic landmark as “The Omni Mount Washington Resort,” but it’ll likely always be “The Mount Washington” to most people. Anyway, they haven’t changed the Nordic Center’s huge trails system, beautifully groomed, which stretches up into the hills. You can even ski down from the top of Bretton Woods on your cross country gear via Mountain Road, which makes a wonderful excuse for a picnic on a warm spring day.

The there’s the Jackson Ski Touring Foundation in Jackson, N.H. I’ve already done a resort review on this gem , one of my all time favorites! Stay at the Wentworth (which David reviewed in his story on The Mount Washington Valley), Snowflake Inn or Eagle Mountain House—all right on the trail system

And The Winner Is . . .

My personal favorite place to cross-country ski? That’s easy! Wherever there’s snow. Try it. You’ll like it!

How To: Lessons From A First (Winter) Campout

Tim Jones — Mon, 22 Feb 2010 20:45:34 +0000

Cold Comfort! A woodstove keeps Matt Marean warm as he packs up his gear after having survived his first night ever in a backpacking tent camp. (David Shedd photo)

My young friend Matt clearly needed a little time away from his parents. So my buddy David and I invited him on his first-ever backpacking trip. Sleeping out in a tent in the middle of winter with a couple of feet of snow on the ground expands your horizons and teaches you some valuable lessons—whether you recognize them at the time or not.

David walked Matt through the whole packing process, showing him what he needed and why. He let Matt pack his own pack—leaving room for common gear and food. Lesson: we are all essentially responsible for ourselves and we all need to carry our fair share.

We met for a HUGE breakfast. Like many teenagers, Matt wakes up reluctantly; his appetite wakes even later. I think he was stunned by the amount of food David and I ate so early in the morning. But calories you eat before you leave the trailhead are calories you don’t have to carry in your pack. Lesson: Sometimes, long-term benefits outweigh immediate desires.

At the trailhead, we shouldered our packs, strapped on snowshoes and headed out. Matt’s bindings gave him trouble so we stopped to readjust. Lesson: We all stick together and help as needed.

Many hands make light work! Matt and David pitch in to clear away two feet of snow from a spot to pitch their winter tent. (Tim Jones photo)

Our planned hike wasn’t long—a lesson David and I learned the hard way—and we all took turns breaking trail in the deep snow. When we arrived at the campsite, we all grabbed shovels to dig out the tent site and firepit. Then we set up the tipi, gathered firewood and got the necessary camp chores done. Matt took the initiative when he saw something that needed doing, and took direction when necessary. Lesson: First things first; if everyone pitches in, chores get done.

After lunch, I set up the woodstove and finished camp chores, while Matt and David took a hike to see some scenery. Lesson: Leave time for fun. I encountered a problem with the stovepipe that we eventually solved: Lesson: use your head(s) and don’t give up.

Warmth in the wilderness. With plenty of firewood and steaks to cook, David Shedd and Matt Marean can enjoy a warm refuge on a chilly winter backpacking trip. (Tim Jones photo)

Our evening was spent dreaming the campfire, cooking steaks, talking topics as large as our place in the universe (a natural topic with infinite stars overhead) and as small as how to keep a campfire going. I don’t know that any of us learned anything profound—but I don’t know that we didn’t, either. It was the kind of free-flowing conversation punctuated by natural silences that people can share when they aren’t bombarded by constant artificial images and noise. Lesson: sometimes it’s OK to just be in the moment.

David and I both slept well, cozy and relaxed in a familiar setting. Lesson: trust your gear. As always, we woke up occasionally, listened to the wind in the trees and went right back to sleep. Matt admitted he had trouble sleeping. He wasn’t cold as much as afraid of being cold. That’s not uncommon for new campers. Lesson: sometimes you just have to get through a bad night to reach a new day.

In the morning, the woodstove kept us toasty warm as we ate breakfast and dressed. Then we packed up, put on our snowshoes and hiked out. Matt took the lead and we urged him to range ahead and follow the trail on his own . . . If Matt learned any lessons from his moments alone, he didn’t say.

David and I are planning another winter overnight soon. We’re hoping Matt can join us. Life isn’t a spectator sport. Get out and enjoy!

Lessons Learned Outdoors

I honestly can’t tell you if Matt learned anything from his quick overnight adventure with one man who is old enough to be his grandfather (that would be me) and one who is seriously involved with his mother and therefore a father figure by default. We tried to share a lot with him in a very short time.

I suspect he did learn, but it may take time for those lessons to become clear. That’s the way we all learn.

I can’t even begin to tell you all the lessons I’ve learned from being outdoors over the years; Lessons about what’s really valuable. Lessons about what’s really necessary and what isn’t, about being alone and working with other people, who you can trust, who you can’t and what friendship really means. Lessons about planning and preparing, about making good decisions and sticking to them, or about changing direction when circumstances changed, and about backing out when going forward would be foolhardy. Lessons about thinking my way out of trouble when trouble unexpectedly came to find me.

And that’s the big stuff. There were also simple little lessons about how good it feels to use your body the way it was designed to be used, how to take care of yourself day to day.

I know there are venues for learning life lessons other than getting active outdoors. But getting outdoors and doing things is so much fun! And it’s so easy and natural to learn in little steps along the way.

It takes one step at a time to travel a long trail, and life is a very long trail. Spending time outdoors is a natural learning process. Learn as you go from any source you can, and live your life as if it wasn’t a spectator sport.

Gearing Up

No one should ever use “I don’t have the stuff I need,” as an excuse for not doing something active outdoors. Not in this day in age. David and I had enough spare gear between us to outfit Matt. If we hadn’t, we could have rented what we needed.

Every cross-country ski area rents skis and most rent snowshoes. There’s a comprehensive list of resorts at the Cross Country Ski Areas Association (www.xcski.org) and you can get lessons as well. When summer comes, kayaks and bikes are easy to rent

If you have an EMS or REI store nearby, both rent excellent camping and mountaineering equipment at very reasonable prices.

There are also on-line sources for longer-term rentals at (www.lowergear.com) and (www.gogitto.com). They’ll ship whatever you need to your door. I’ve never used either of these so can’t recommend from personal experience but the websites look professional, the gear they are offering is proven, and the concept looks legitimate.

Resort Review: Jackson XC

Tim Jones — Thu, 11 Feb 2010 19:02:49 +0000

Snow covered bridge! You can ski right over the Ellis River on this beautiful covered bridge in Jackson, NH on the network of trails maintained by Jackson XC. (Tim Jones photo)

My sweetheart Marilyn and I were up in Jackson, NH, recently with our friends David and Susan to celebrate the 75th birthday of the venerable Black Mountain ski area(1-800-475-4669) one of our favorite alpine ski hills. Jackson NH is certainly a wonderful destination for Active Outdoors types. In addition to Black Mountain (read our resort review here) for alpine skiers there’s also Jackson XC (1-800-927-6697) for cross country buffs.

Jackson also has some wonderful places to stay and eat. On this trip, we’d all comfortably settled into the historic Eagle Mountain House (1-800-966-5799; ) which has cozy rooms, very comfortable beds, a hot tub, great breakfasts and warming libations and comfort food in the Highfields Tavern. This lovely old hotel is perfectly positioned close to Jackson Village with a view of the summit of Black Mountain. They’ve got sledding, skating, snowshoe and ski trails right on the property, and ski-and-stay package deals. What more could you ask for?

Other places we’ve stayed in Jackson include the Snowflake Inn, the Wentworth Country Inn (which we’ve reviewed here) and the Inn at Jackson.

This particular weekend was cold, clear and very windy—does that sound familiar? We’d skied hard on Saturday (Black Mountain faces south so there was little wind and lots of sun). Saturday night we partied and danced to the Swingtones, a 14-piece big band playing great 40s-era music. On Sunday morning with the temperature hovering just above zero and the wind rattling the windows, Marilyn and Susan decided to cocoon in the warm hotel while David and I got active outdoors.

A torrential rain a few days before our visit had somewhat limited our options. While the groomed snowmaking trails at the mountain had been in great shape, natural snow cover was crusty everywhere and thin (or non-existent!) in spots. We had snowshoes with us and there are many beautiful trails to explore, but we’d both been doing a lot of snowshoeing recently for the great snowshoe test, and not much cross-country skiing. So we called Jackson XC to see what they had to offer. Jackson is so big, with so many varied trails that you can almost always find what you want–even if the weather hasn’t been particularly cooperative.

Thom Perkins, the director of the non-profit foundation which runs Jackson XC, who was answering the phone that morning, told us that the “core” trails in the valley near their touring center were generally in better shape than the ones farther out on their system. He strongly recommended we come down to the valley and ski the Ellis River Trail. When in doubt, trust the people with local knowledge. Thom knows every inch of the Jackson trail system and he certainly gave good information this day.

Jackson XC delivers sunshine, blues skies, and some healthy exercise. What more could you ask for on a cold winter morning! (Tim Jones photo)

We started out from their touring center across the windy, mostly flat golf course, Snowcover twas thin in spots, but perfectly groomed and very skiable. We crossed a covered bridge over the Ellis River and skied through a tunnel under busy Route 16, then skied more open golf course trail until we had to take off our skis and cross Green Hill Road to reach the Ellis River Trail. Good warmup for the real thing!

This was never meant to be a major excursion, just a chance to get out on skis on a beautiful cold, bright morning and burn off a few more calories before lunch. If the womenfolk had come with us, we could have made a wonderful day of it with a picnic lunch at the Ellis River Cabin. But the point is to get out when and where you can. If you can only go for an hour or two, that’s time well spent that no one can ever take away from you.

The whole experience changed when we left the open golf course behind and hit the wooded trail along the river. This is one of Jackson’s most popular trails—for good reason. The entire trail is over 7 km in each direction, green circle (easier) all the way with only a few little rolling up-and-down sections. It still had plenty of snow and was beautifully groomed with a wide, flat path for skate skiing and double-tracks for classic technique.

David was on touring gear, lighter and faster than the Alpina Discovery backcountry gear I always have with me for whatever the conditons offer, so he flew out ahead and flew back while I puttered along at my slow-but-steady pace. We both got a good workout, he just saw more of the trail than I did! In retrospect, I should have taken my skate skis—maybe I could have kept up!

The Riverbank Loop diverts from the Ellis River Trail and runs for a full kilometer along–you guessed it!– the riverbank. This narrower trail is double tracked for classic skiers only, and we explored its twisting undulations, hearing only the soft swish of our skis, the wind in the trees and the soft murmurs of the ice-bound river. Lovely!

Even if you’ve never, ever been on cross-country skis before, this is a trail you could enjoy on any winter day. We never planned on doing the whole trail and the six or seven kilometers I traveled was just enough.

Cross country skiing at Jackson XC isn’t just for super-athletes! Whatever your fitness level, you can improve it with a winter morning on cross-country skis. (Tim Jones photo)

Of course Jackson XC offers a whole lot more than just flat and easy green circles across golf courses and through the woods along rivers. They’ve got groomed black diamonds like the 12 kilometer Hall Trail and the East Pasture Trail (near the Black Mountain Cabin) and the Wildcat valley Trail that are going to be a challenge for anyone on backcountry gear. Then there are the steep, twisty, ungroomed black diamonds such as the Black Mountain Cabin Trail and the Doublehead Ski Trail that are probably better tackled on Tele or AT gear with skins.

When Mother Nature is being uncooperative, Jackson XC almost always has something worth skiing. And when she’s being generous, this is a playground you could explore for a week without even beginning to see all of it.