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Tim’s Favorite Places To XC

Tim Jones — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 18:37:28 +0000

Cross country skiing will make you wish winter was much longer! (Tim Jones photo)

There’s snow on the ground, sun in the sky, and this is the perfect time of year to get out on cross-country skis. If you aren’t a cross-country skier already, what are you waiting for? It’s safe, easy to learn, and great exercise for folks of all fitness levels. Take up cross-country skiing now and, instead of grumping around for the next month, you’ll be sorry to see the snow melt in spring.

Cross-country skiing doesn’t require nearly as much snow (or as much money) as alpine. What follows is not a comprehensive list, but rather some personal favorites where I’ve actually skied. Try any of them this winter: good times guaranteed:

Great Glen is great for skiers of all ages (Tim Jones photo)

The Great Glen Trails Outdoor Center in Gorham, N.H. is one of my all-time favorites with phenomenal views, an extensive network of trails ranging from super-easy to “Oh-My-God” challenging. They’ve got the unique “Snow Coach” service which takes you 4.5 miles up the Mount Washington Auto Road to tree line, and lets you ski back down.

If you want to stay overnight and ski the next day, I recommend the AMC’s Joe Dodge Lodge where they feed you a great family-style breakfast and dinner in the company of other active outdoors enthusiasts. If you must have a private bath, head back down to Jackson where they’ve lodging and dining options galore.

Another personal favorite in New Hampshire is the Waterville Valley Nordic Center in Waterville Valley. Great trails, lots of lodging and dining options

The sound of skinny skis! Wide trails through the woods is one of the main attractions a the Trapp Family Lodge

Vermont has many, many cross country options and I haven’t skied all of them. But my personal favorite is the Trapp Family Lodge in Stowe, Vermont. It’s not surprising that their cross-country network is among my favorites. Trapp’s was the first true cross-country ski resort in the U. S. , starting in 1968 (the year I first cross-country skied!). Currently, they groom about 45 km for both tracks and skate skiing, make snow on seven or eight km (more than any other resort in New England, I believe) and mark another 100 km of backcountry ski and snowshoe trails. . . .

If you’re skiing Trapp’s for the first time, make the Slayton Pasture Cabin your goal. It’s about 5km from the main lodge via the very steep Cabin Trail or almost 6 km by the route along Sugar Road, then up (and up, and more up) the not-so-steep Parizo Trail and across the mountain’s shoulder on the far end of Cabin Trail.

The wide open spaces at Ole's give you marvelous views. (Tim Jones photo)

My other favorites in Vermont are the lovely Mountain Top Inn in Chittenden, Vermont, which is about 11 miles and lightyears in attitude away from Killington, and a perfect romantic weekend getaway spot with wonderful trails and a world-class sledding hill. Ole’s Cross Country Ski Center in Warren, Vermont, which has its core trails on what is an airport in the summer–wide open spaces with wonderful views of Sugarbush.

Two more of my cross-county favorites are over in New York. Garnet Hill Lodge XC Center in North River NY has a wonderful rustic lodge, good food, and miles of trails—including one you can ski down from the top of Gore Mountain.

Then, up in Lake Placid the Olympic Sports Complex at Mt. Van Hoevenberg is truly world-class. Olympic quality racers ski there all the time. It’s also the only spot where ordinary citizens get to try out the fiendishly tough sport of biathlon. When we are in Lake Placid, my sweetheart Marilyn and I usually luxuriate at the Mirror Lake Inn or the very-comfortable Crowne Plaza . . .

There are so many places to cross country ski. So go, try it. Take a lesson if you need to. Start on an easy trail but start somewhere. Life isn’t a spectator sport. Get out and enjoy!

I Love Golf (Courses, That is!)

Some of the very best cross-country ski centers are set up on golf courses. As far as I’m concerned, they could skip the golf . . . though I suppose it’s something to do in the summer . . . Cross-country ski centers on golf courses (almost) always have very gentle, rolling hills and smooth trails –perfect for learning.

Cross country skiing near Boston? You better believe it! Weston Ski Track in Weston, Mass. gets more snow in some years than some northern areas, and has snowmaking when Mother nature doesn’t cooperate.

That's Okemo Mountain Resort in the backgropund at the Okemo Nordic Center (Marilyn Donnelly photo)

In Maine, try the Bethel Inn for a lovely setting, on the edge of a charming New England village with views across the Androscoggin River valley to the mountains of Western Maine! (Nice place to stay, too!)

If you are in the Sunapee or Upper Valley regions of New Hampshire, check out the golf-course trails at Eastman Cross Country Center in Grantham, NH. Not as flat as most golf courses!

Okemo Nordic Center in Ludlow, Vermont is a wonderful golf-course-based cross county ski center and a great escape from Okemo.

The Best Of Both Worlds!

These three areas have the best of both worlds: lovely, open, easy golf-course trails and more challenging, steeper trails through the trees.

The combination of flat golf courses and high hills gives The Balsams Resort skiers the best of both worlds! (Tim Jones photo)

Balsams Wilderness in Dixville Notch, N.H., is isolated and absolutely lovely, the Balsams Grand Hotel right there!

Another of my golf-course-plus favorites is the Bretton Woods Nordic Center in Bretton Woods, N.H. The new owners are hoping to have people refer to this historic landmark as “The Omni Mount Washington Resort,” but it’ll likely always be “The Mount Washington” to most people. Anyway, they haven’t changed the Nordic Center’s huge trails system, beautifully groomed, which stretches up into the hills. You can even ski down from the top of Bretton Woods on your cross country gear via Mountain Road, which makes a wonderful excuse for a picnic on a warm spring day.

The there’s the Jackson Ski Touring Foundation in Jackson, N.H. I’ve already done a resort review on this gem , one of my all time favorites! Stay at the Wentworth (which David reviewed in his story on The Mount Washington Valley), Snowflake Inn or Eagle Mountain House—all right on the trail system

And The Winner Is . . .

My personal favorite place to cross-country ski? That’s easy! Wherever there’s snow. Try it. You’ll like it!

The A List: Tim’s “Forgotten Favorite” Ski Hills

Tim Jones — Fri, 29 Jan 2010 05:18:01 +0000

It’s easy to see the attraction of a big, glamorous resort with a tall mountain and

The slopes and the views are beautiful at Burke Mountain in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom.

widely varied terrain; lots of fast lifts, snowmaking and grooming; an array of lodging and restaurant options nearby. It’s a complete package all laid out for you—sort of Disneyland in white.

But those aren’t your only option. There are also what I call the “defining mountains,” hills so iconic that if you haven’t skied or ridden them you can’t say you’ve truly sampled eastern slopes.

Then, there are lots of, for want of a better word, “local” hills sometimes near cities, sometimes near areas with lots of second homes, where families gather, kids learn to ski and ride and tear up the slopes in happy packs, adults join race leagues and challenge their friends. Great fun for all.

Lost in among all these options are what I call the “forgotten” hills. Sure, they have a following of regulars—that’s how they stay in business. And for some lucky people, these are their “local” hill. But they don’t have the cachet and all the extras of a “glam” resort, they don’t have big advertising budgets, and very few people put them on their “defining mountains” list.

I’m an adventurer and an explorer by nature. I love to see/try different places. My suggestion: at least once or twice this winter, get out and try sliding on a “forgotten” hill. You may find a gem you’ll treasure forever.

Maine:

Mount Abram (207-875-5000) in Locke Mills, Maine. A wonderful family hill with nicely balanced terrain with some serious steeps, lost in the shadow of nearby Sunday River.

Saddleback (866-918-2225) in Rangeley, Maine. Saddleback is growing rapidly, with a beautiful new base lodge, new lifts and sprouting development. Get there and explore its twisting trails before it changes completely.

Massachusetts:

Berkshire East (413-339-6617) in Charlemont, Mass. Plenty of good terrain for skiers and riders of all ability levels to enjoy for a day or two—try it when Mount Snow and Jiminy are crowded

Catamount (413-528-1262) in South Egremont, Mass. Lots of cruising terrain with a separate beginner lift and some fairly serious steeps. If you are looking for mellower, try nearby Ski Butternut (413-528-2000) in Great Barrington, Mass

New Hampshire

Driving to The Balsams in far northern New Hampshire means having your own private ski resort. Just look at the crowds on a warm, blue-sky Saturday with fresh powder.

The Balsams (800-255-0600) in Dixville Notch, N.H. Your own private ski area—miles from nowhere!

Black Mountain (800-475-4669) in Jackson, N.H. Faces south and the perfect refuge when the wind is blowing at Wildcat.

Dartmouth Skiway (603-795-2143) in Lyme Center, N.H. Friendly, fun, with two separate peaks to explore—surprisingly easy to access off I-91

Tenney Mountain (888-289-1020) in Plymouth, N.H.
Hasn’t changed much since I first skied it in 1967. Beautiful twisting trails designed for the contours of the hill, not for easy grooming.

New York

Titus Mountain looks out onto the low hills which roll away to Lake Ontario. This was taken on a weekday when we were among ony a handful of skiers and riders there to enjoy perfect conditions.

Belleayre Mountain (845-254-5600) in Highmount, New York. The quietest of the Catskill areas—a gem mid-week.

Titus Mountain (518-483-3740) in Malone, New York. Friendly mountain, great daytrip for a change of scenery from Lake Placid/Whiteface.

Vermont

Bolton Valley (1-877-9BOLTON) in Bolton, Vermont. A seriously fun and challenging hill that spawned the DesLaurier brothers of Warren Miller fame.

Bromley Mountain (800-865-4786) in Peru, Vermont. Faces south, great terrain, quiet most weekdays.

Burke Mountain (802-626-7300) in East Burke, Vermont. A Big mountain with lots of variety, gorgeous views and a beautiful base lodge

Magic Mountain (802-824-5645) in Londonderry, Vermont. This is where instructors and ski atrollers from Stratton and Okemo go to find more challenging terrain on their day off . . .

Middlebury Snow Bowl (802-388-4356) in Hancock, Vermont. This gem has terrain for everyone, isn’t crowded even on powder mornings.

The A List: Adaptive Snowsports Programs!

Tim Jones — Sat, 23 Jan 2010 22:34:18 +0000

Flying by the seat of his pants! Geoff Krill, the winter sports director at New England Disabled Sports at Loon Mountain shows how to lay out a perfect carved turn on a sit ski.

There’s no other way to describe it. Geoff Krill, the winter sports director at New England Disabled Sports at Loon Mountain (603-745-6281 x5663) and Cameron (Cam) Shaw-Doran, a Franconia, NH native and sales-rep for SoNu, a sports drink company were kicking my butt. Being very PC guys, they were subtly scrubbing speed, so an age-impaired companion (that would be me) who thought he liked to ski fast, could keep up. And they were both doing it without benefit of functioning legs—riding on sit skis (a seat with shock absorbers mounted on a single ski).

Independence Day! Geoff Krill and Cam Shaw-Doran are as independent as anyone on the slopes, getting on the lift and going skiing just because they love playing on snow. What’s your excuse for not getting on snow this winter!

Most people would, I suppose, see these guys as “handicapped,” or “disabled”; both lost the use of their legs to spinal-chord injuries, Krill in a snowmobile mishap in 1995, Shaw-Doran in an automobile accident in 1997. But once you are on the slopes with them, it’s impossible to see them as anything other than fellow skiers—and darned good ones at that. They were active and athletic before their accidents, and by any measure, they still are. Both are high-level competitors on sit-skis. Thanks to adaptive technology, they can drive to a resort, get their ski out of the cars, and head for the lifts without any help from anyone.

“We aren’t heroes,” says Krill, “and we don’t want to be treated that way. In fact, it’s a little embarrassing when people come up to you and say what an inspiration you are. I’ve been a mentor for Cam and some other people facing challenges, but that’s just by example, showing that you can have a pretty cool life with a disability. I’d rather have people see me getting out and doing what I want to do, enjoying life with friends.”

What disability? Cam Shaw-Doran lays out a perfect carve in a sit ski on the slopes of Loon Mountain in Lincoln, NH.

Do you get a little teary-eyed when you see an inspirational story of, say, a wheelchair-bound athlete competing in a marathon? “Well, get over it,” is the message from most of the athletes and outdoor enthusiasts with disabilities that I’ve talked to. The only people they want to be inspirations for are other folks facing similar challenges. To the non-challenged majority, they just want to be seen as people doing what they love and what they are good at, learning to be good at, or simply having fun with.

So the next time you see someone flying down the slopes on a sit ski, or on one leg with outriggers, or even a blind skier following a guide down the slopes, smile at them, say hi and talk about the skiing. Oh, and try and see if you can keep up . . .

Adaptive Snowsports Programs

If you have some sort of physical challenge that you think might keep you off the slopes, there are lots of GREAT programs that will be happy to prove to you that you can do it. Here are some:

Ability Plus (603-236-4758)

F.S.H.E. / E.T.D.S.F. (Eastern Townships Disabled Skiers Foundation – 450-243-5985)

Maine Handicapped Skiing (207-824-2440)

New England Disabled Sports at Loon Mountain (603-745-6281 x5663)

New England Handicapped Sports Association (603-763-9158)

Northeast Passage (603-862-0070)

Ski For Light (612-827-3232)

Stride Adaptive Sports (518-598-1279)

Vermont Adaptive Ski & Sports (802.786.4991)

Whiteface Adaptive Snowsports Program

Trails With No Tracks

Tim Jones — Fri, 12 Jun 2009 17:00:46 +0000

A sea kayak gives you private access to beaches away from the noise and crowds

When you hear the word “trail” connected with outdoor activities, do you automatically think of a pathway through the woods to be trod with hiking boots or pedaled on a mountain bike? If you do, you are, of course, correct, but you are also missing part of a much larger picture.

Over the years, I’ve shared with you information and adventures on a whole host of different types of “trails.” Judging from the emails I receive, most of you feel passionate about your trails, Columns I’ve done on biking rail “trails” and walking urban cultural and historic “trails” have really struck a chord with many readers.

Another whole “trail” option is especially attractive at this time of year. Across the northeast there are water routes that you can explore in a canoe or kayak for hours, days, or even weeks if you have the time.

The beauty of most of these water trails is that they are accessible—at least in part—to anyone who wants to go exploring. Even if you’ve never been in a canoe or kayak you can borrow or rent a boat and play around for a couple of hours on the flatwater sections of rivers, on ponds or lakes or protected saltwater bays. Better yet, you can take a lesson. It’s fun, and as you get better you can explore longer and more challenging routes.

These water trails are beautiful places to explore, and there’s something magic about letting water carry most of the weight as you glide over the surface with almost-silent paddle strokes and listen to the sounds of flowing water, wind (hopefully not to much!) and, if you are lucky, the calls of loons and seabirds.

If you’re looking for paddle opportunities, I’d recommend getting the River Guidebooks published by the AMC (www.outdoors.org) and the paddlers guides to the Adirondacks published by the Adirondack Mountain Club (www.adk.org). These list dozens if not hundreds of day paddling options, plus campsites if you want to extend your explorations.

The Adirondacks, which is a land of ponds and rivers as much as water has some wonderful places to explore by paddle. So does Maine where famous routes like the Moose River Bow (www.jackmanmaine.org/maine-canoe-trips.php) and the Allagash Waterway (www.maine.gov/doc/parks/parksinfo/allagash) are just some of the possibilities to get out and explore a trail where you leave no tracks.

Life isn’t a spectator sport. Get out and enjoy!

NORTHERN FOREST CANOE TRAIL

The 740-mile Northern Forest Canoe Trail (www.northernforestcanoetrail.org), which was officially opened in 2006, stretches from Old Forge in the Adirondacks in New York to Fort Kent in Maine, passing through Vermont, Quebec and New Hampshire along the way. Thirteen published maps detail campsites, portage routes (62, totaling 55 miles), trail signs, and access points along the entire route.

On The Northern Forest Canoe Trail near Jackman, Maine

While it is possible to paddle it end-to-end, and a number of people have done it, most people will do it in sections to avoid having to paddle upstream on some of the 22 rivers and streams along the route. I can’t even imagine, for example, trying to paddle, pole or even line a loaded boat upstream on Maine’s Rapid River,

The NFCT also includes 56 lakes and ponds, which are perfect places to get started if you aren’t a skilled river paddler. And much of the river paddling is easy flatwater with no rapids, You can do a significant portion of the NFCT without ever having to dodge a rock.

While almost any spot on the trail is perfect for a day adventure, the real purpose of the trail is to get people to explore longer. There are campsites along the route. Some of them are brand new, created since the NFCT was conceived. Others were used by Native Americans when they traveled this same route in birchbark and dugout canoes. When you paddle the NFCT, you are touching a significant piece of American history.

If you aren’t into camping, some sections of the route have beautiful inns and luxury B&Bs available. More on this in a couple of weeks . . .

THE MAINE ISLAND TRAIL

Camped on the Maine Island Trail

The Maine Island Trail is a 325-mile long winding salt water route extending from Casco Bay (near Portland) all the way to Machias Bay in far Downeast Maine. Accessible by motorboat, sailboat and, best of all, by seakayak, The Maine Island Trail includes over 150 island and mainland sites which can be used for day visits or overnight camping.

The Maine Island Tail Association. (www.mita.org; 207-761-8225), maintains and monitors these public sites. They have a wonderfully detailed guidebook, published annually, which is available to members only and well worth the $45 annual membership fee. MITA sponsors many events, including island cleanups which are a great way to get introduced to the Trail.

Along the Maine Island Trail you can camp on uninhabited islands, stay in mainland campsites with flush toilets and showers, or paddle from luxury inn to luxury inn. It all depends on your budget and how adventuresome you are.

I first discovered the Maine Island Trail on a three-night, four day guided kayak tour with H2Outfitters (www.h2outfitters.com ;1-800-20-KAYAK) on Penobscot Bay. We paddled among islands and past lighthouses, explored the shore of Isle au Haut, slept in tents on otherwise uninhabited islands, watched dolphins, jellyfish and seabird, ate like kings, swam in fresh water in an old quarry. This was a magic adventure that I intend to repeat as soon as I can.

A number of other guides can introduce you to the Maine Island Trail. The Maine Association of Sea Kayak Guides and Instructors has a full list of certified guides at www.maineseakayakguides.com.

A Rare Display Of Common Sense

Tim Jones — Fri, 27 Mar 2009 19:56:42 +0000

Blue Skies Ahead! Some of the trails at Garnet Hill Lodge in North River, New York suddenly open to breathtaking views of the high peaks of the Adirondacks. Beautiful place to be on a sunny March afternoon!

I’m writing this in a cozy room in The Log House at Garnet Hill Lodge (1-800-497-4207; www.garnet-hill.com) in North River, New York. Nice place. Comfortable. The people are friendly. There’s a big fireplace downstairs with couches to relax on, a game room, a tiny pub. We enjoyed a hearty dinner last night with a great view and a big breakfast this morning. Just the kind of place we love. Normally, I’d be happy to be here, the sun would be setting and all would be well.

My sweetheart Marilyn is quietly reading. While she’s not exactly hiding from me, it’s clear that she’s ignoring me. I admit it, I’m very restless and a little grumpy. With reason. Here we are at a perfectly marvelous cross-country ski venue with snow galore on the ground, and miles and miles of beautiful trails just outside the door. We should be headed out the door to ski. But I’m alternately banging on this keyboard and glaring out the window at the sloppy mix of rain and freezing rain that’s pouring from the sky, being driven sidewise through the thick fog by a brisk wind.

Nasty weather.

A few years ago, one of the major suppliers of outdoor clothing ran a series of ads which said “There’s no such thing as bad weather, only inadequate clothing.” They obviously hadn’t looked out this particular window on this particular morning.

We came to the Adirondacks with a specific adventure in mind. Garnet Hill XC Center offers a guided, all-day ski tour from the top of nearby Gore Mountain (518-251-2411; www.goremountain.com ) in North Creek, back to their own 50 km trail network. Sounds like great fun; I wish I could do it.

Tom Mertt, the head of Garnet Hill’s Recreation programs, and I had planned to do it despite the rain in the forecast. But then I woke up and looked outside at ice and pouring rain, common sense kicked in. Tom was ready to go; it was my decision to cancel. Older and wiser heads prevail.

Heavy rain last night on top of the warm weather of the last couple of days, has, I imagine, had an impact on the ungroomed natural snow on the backcountry trails. What was once deep power is now mashed potatoes. There’s still a couple of feet of snow on the ground—in the places I can see. But it clearly isn’t what it was.

And then there’s this rain. I’m less weather-sensitive than a lot of folks and will happily go out and play when it’s cold, snowy, rainy, windy, whatever . . . But there are some weather conditions that just aren’t made for outdoor adventuring. Thunderstorms in summer, for example, keep all but the foolhardy off the summits and away from water. In winter, the combination of high wind, heavy snow and deep cold can make all but the most imprudent stay bundled indoors. And a near-freezing, wind-driven rain is often miserably uncomfortable, occasionally dangerous. More people die of hypothermia when it’s raining than when it’s snowing.

Even with terrific waterproof/breathable raingear (mine is from REI (www.rei.com), Marilyn’s is Marmot (marmot.com ), but there’s lots of other good stuff on the market), today doesn’t look like fun. Add to that the iffy snow conditions and you can understand why I’m in here and not out there.

There’s a bright spot on the horizon, however, the radar says the rain is going to end this afternoon—maybe we can still get in a few miles of cross-country skiing on the trails that were groomed yesterday before the rain started. There’s hope! Life isn’t a spectator sport. Get out and enjoy!

LATER. . .

Sometimes, all it takes is patience. After I’d written the above diatribe, I settled in to get some work done. By lunchtime, the rain was slowing. Then, suddenly, the rain stopped and the sun came out. In a flash, Marilyn, Tom and I were dressed and out the door into what had suddenly become a warm Spring day.

Garnet Hill is, as the name implies, set near the top of a hill where they used to mine garnets. One of the services they offer is a shuttle that lets you ski down about 800 vertical feet over the course of several miles to a pickup point. With only a couple of hours to ski, that’s the option we chose.

The sun was shining and the wind silent, and we could ski without hats, gloves or jackets. Garnet Hill maintains beautiful wide, smooth trails through rolling woodlands, mixed conifers and hardwoods, and across wide fields with stunning views of the surrounding Adirondack High Peaks. Beautiful terrain for cross-country skiing or snowshoeing.

The snow was soft and slow—which meant in was easy to glide up hills and we could cruise down steeper trails at a comfortable, relaxed pace. Pure joy! Especially after a morning cooped up inside.

Spring cross-country skiing at its best! Only a couple of times did we hit spots where the trail was flooded or undermined from all the rain.

We had a wonderful afternoon, reveling in the sunshine and snow!

And the best thing? We have an excuse to come back next winter and do that Gore to Garnet trek when the snow is deep the weather more winterlike.

MARCH MADNESS

March is one of those months when you have to seize the moment. We cross-country skied that afternoon in the sunshine, That night the temperature dropped into the low teens, freezing everything up solid. Garnet Hill was out grooming that crust into smooth, soft snow, I’m sure, but the next morning was cold and windy.

We really hit it right on our afternoon jaunt.

Since we’re now in daylight savings time, there’s still daylight to do things after you get out of work. If there’s snow around you, how about a quick jaunt on snowshoes or cross-country skis. You don’t have to go far to have fun.

No snow? Get out your road bike and take a spin on a paved road. Or ride your mountain bike on a soft gravel road. Take a headlamp and you can keep riding after dark. It’s all fun, all good.