EasternSlopes.com » Quebec

The A List: Adaptive Snowsports Programs!

Tim Jones — Sat, 23 Jan 2010 22:34:18 +0000

Flying by the seat of his pants! Geoff Krill, the winter sports director at New England Disabled Sports at Loon Mountain shows how to lay out a perfect carved turn on a sit ski.

There’s no other way to describe it. Geoff Krill, the winter sports director at New England Disabled Sports at Loon Mountain (603-745-6281 x5663) and Cameron (Cam) Shaw-Doran, a Franconia, NH native and sales-rep for SoNu, a sports drink company were kicking my butt. Being very PC guys, they were subtly scrubbing speed, so an age-impaired companion (that would be me) who thought he liked to ski fast, could keep up. And they were both doing it without benefit of functioning legs—riding on sit skis (a seat with shock absorbers mounted on a single ski).

Independence Day! Geoff Krill and Cam Shaw-Doran are as independent as anyone on the slopes, getting on the lift and going skiing just because they love playing on snow. What’s your excuse for not getting on snow this winter!

Most people would, I suppose, see these guys as “handicapped,” or “disabled”; both lost the use of their legs to spinal-chord injuries, Krill in a snowmobile mishap in 1995, Shaw-Doran in an automobile accident in 1997. But once you are on the slopes with them, it’s impossible to see them as anything other than fellow skiers—and darned good ones at that. They were active and athletic before their accidents, and by any measure, they still are. Both are high-level competitors on sit-skis. Thanks to adaptive technology, they can drive to a resort, get their ski out of the cars, and head for the lifts without any help from anyone.

“We aren’t heroes,” says Krill, “and we don’t want to be treated that way. In fact, it’s a little embarrassing when people come up to you and say what an inspiration you are. I’ve been a mentor for Cam and some other people facing challenges, but that’s just by example, showing that you can have a pretty cool life with a disability. I’d rather have people see me getting out and doing what I want to do, enjoying life with friends.”

What disability? Cam Shaw-Doran lays out a perfect carve in a sit ski on the slopes of Loon Mountain in Lincoln, NH.

Do you get a little teary-eyed when you see an inspirational story of, say, a wheelchair-bound athlete competing in a marathon? “Well, get over it,” is the message from most of the athletes and outdoor enthusiasts with disabilities that I’ve talked to. The only people they want to be inspirations for are other folks facing similar challenges. To the non-challenged majority, they just want to be seen as people doing what they love and what they are good at, learning to be good at, or simply having fun with.

So the next time you see someone flying down the slopes on a sit ski, or on one leg with outriggers, or even a blind skier following a guide down the slopes, smile at them, say hi and talk about the skiing. Oh, and try and see if you can keep up . . .

Adaptive Snowsports Programs

If you have some sort of physical challenge that you think might keep you off the slopes, there are lots of GREAT programs that will be happy to prove to you that you can do it. Here are some:

Ability Plus (603-236-4758)

F.S.H.E. / E.T.D.S.F. (Eastern Townships Disabled Skiers Foundation – 450-243-5985)

Maine Handicapped Skiing (207-824-2440)

New England Disabled Sports at Loon Mountain (603-745-6281 x5663)

New England Handicapped Sports Association (603-763-9158)

Northeast Passage (603-862-0070)

Ski For Light (612-827-3232)

Stride Adaptive Sports (518-598-1279)

Vermont Adaptive Ski & Sports (802.786.4991)

Whiteface Adaptive Snowsports Program

Montreal, The Eastern Townships…And Rented Skis

David Shedd — Wed, 20 Jan 2010 00:23:18 +0000

It’s not very often that you’ll find me going to a big city…there’s something about that much pavement, that much noise, and that many people that gives me the willies. But some cities are exceptions, and Montreal is one of them. It’s more open than most cities, has lots of interesting things to do, and a little less “bustling” feel to it…and GREAT food. No, great CHEAP food…so two of my hot buttons get pushed! My parents, Edie & Warner, love the place, too, and they’re fun to travel with, so we decided to go up together for a couple of days during Susan’s winter break.

Does this makes sense…head for one of the coldest cities on the planet in January? Did I mention that I’m cheap? Lodging deals in Montreal are fantastic at that time of year, since lots of other people don’t like the cold. And we’ve got all this wicked cool outdoors gear, so we can stay wicked warm. Life is good. And there are coffee shops all over the place, so the cold is an excuse to sip an afternoon latte…better still. And then there’s the food…

My mother’s the ultimate researcher. Give her a week and a computer, and she’ll have rated every restaurant in a city. In Montreal, that’s about, oh, 5,000 restaurants…and she had them ALL rated by quality, price, and location. Maybe that’s a slight exaggeration, but not much! She’d narrowed things down to about a dozen restaurants within walking distance of the hotel. I always love the Indian food up there…it may be different ingredients, different cooking styles, but it’s always great, so that was an automatic. Beyond that, she’d found Magdala, an Ethiopian restaurant that sounded fantastic…and it was! Truly an experience, beyond the food itself.

When not eating, we spent a lot of time at the Biodome–a must-do when you’re up there. Different habitats, different viewing angles, allow you to see the natural world in a whole new way. Imagine being able to see a beaver swimming from below, or a whole array of northern ocean fish right next to you, then wandering through a tropical rainforest! Just amazing! You’ll come away with a different understanding of our world…but no, you can’t take one of the penguins home.

The Eastern Townships provide outdoors fun in gentler weather, too (Stephane Lemire photo)

But, this is EasternSlopes.com, and we’re about outdoors activities (mostly). And it’s hard to do that in the middle of a city. Luckily, Montreal sits just west of an area of Quebec called The Eastern Townships, a compact, picturesque region where my partner Tim and his new bride Marilyn honeymooned this last fall, and that just happens to have several excellent downhill ski areas! That makes it a no brainer: go East, young(ish) man!

But, we were traveling in a small car with 4 adults. A dilemma: how to carry all of our stuff? Clothes, skis, boots, poles… just not enough room. It’s the same dilemma that a lot of airline passengers face. You’re headed to Montreal for a conference, and you’d love to get a couple of days of skiing in…but handling all that luggage is a pain (not to mention expensive, given the changes in the way airlines are making you pay).

The modern, well-equipped Bromont rental shop (David Shedd photo)

Luckily, there’s a great solution…rent! It used to be that rental skis were atrocious: heavy,dull, unresponsive junk. But that’s totally changed. Rentals are now “real” skis…the same ones you can buy in a ski shop. And most areas have several models, and can fit them to your height, weight, skiing style. Add to that fresh tuning, and it becomes a bargain to rent …plus you get to try some different skis! Pack your own clothes for comfort and your own boots and rent everything else. One caution…make sure that the area rents helmets, or bring your own. Boots, helmet, goggles, and clothing fit in one midsized bag.

With the decision made about how to ski, the question remained of where. With that many ski areas, it’s a tough choice! We finally decided on SkiBromont.com (easy marketing to

SkiBromont's colorful base area, with Chateau Bromont beyond (David Shedd photo)

change the name to the website’s name, apparently!), for several reasons. First, it’s about 5 minutes off Autoroute 10, the main route east from Montreal. Second, it’s got the most extensive snowmaking north of the border; in early January, that makes good conditions much likelier. Third, they’ve got an extensive rental shop, with high-performance skis. Friendly people on the phone helped me organize our rentals and tickets, and everything was waiting for us when we arrived! Sweet.

The Eastern Townships, as you head east from Montreal, present a fascinating topography. Approached from that angle, they’re as flat as Kansas…and then, out of nowhere, a mountain appears. And another. And another. Pretty soon, we could see trails on different mountains…and my parents asked “which one is Bromont?” That was easy…the one covered with plumes from snowmaking. Hmm…time to get down to some skiing!

Now, if you’ve been paying close attention, you may be wondering…”what about the ‘rents?” Good question…it’s sort of rude to leave them sitting in the lodge while we have fun. Well…that’s one of the wonders of the Eastern Townships. There’s a ton of stuff to do, even in winter! Depending on your likes, there’s every kind of outdoor sport, historic sites, zoos, museums; pick your favorite. They couldn’t wait for us to get out of the car so they could explore. We’d arranged to stay at the Chateau Bromont (more on that later!), which isn’t part of SkiBromont.com, but is close enough that we could take a shuttle bus or walk, so they could do their thing without worrying about picking us up.

Our skis were everything we were told they'd be (David Shedd photo)

Off they went…and off we went into the rental shop. I’d asked for some high-performance skis, and they put me on the Rossignol Avenger 82Ti, one of Rossi’s hottest new skis. For Susan, they had Rossignol Attraxion 3s, a 2009 model…not quite as high performance, perfect for her intermediate skiing skills. Both pairs were in excellent condition, and freshly tuned. Mine were a blast…the titanium layer adds a “snap” to the exit from corners that’s just plain fun. In the soft stuff along the edges of the trails, they were controllable and confident. Susan skied smoothly on hers, happily handling whatever terrain we covered. Certainly, one of my goals in trying rentals was met: I found a ski I want to try again!

Speaking of terrain, Bromont’s got 7 faces, so there’s always something in sun or shade. And, depending on where the last snowstorm has come from, there’ll be more natural snow in unpredictable places. When we were there, the storm had clearly come in from the southwest, turning the “Versant de la Cote Ouest” into a confectioner’s sugar fairyland. The skiing was fun, but the view was incredible. Speaking of the skiing,

It's hard to have a bad day with conditions like this! (David Shedd photo)

here’s a hint: watch the groomers. Bromont’s got an unusual business plan; they have a HUGE number of season pass holders, and most of them are for weeknight skiing. They have more lit terrain than any mountain in North America, and Montreal is only an hour away. Another attraction: a nice slopeside restaurant/bar area. Because of the constant skiing, they constantly groom, all day and night. So…midafternoon, when the slopes always get scratchy, we watched for the closed-off trails that were being groomed, then joined the people waiting to hit those slopes. First tracks on soft corduroy at 2 p.m! What a blast!

The utterly atypical Chateau Bromont lobby (David Shedd photo)

Not only was it a blast, but it was a bargain. $48 Canadian (roughly $50 U.S. as this is written) isn’t much to spend for a mountain with 135 trails, glades everywhere, fresh grooming, and easy access. So far, so good…now we can only hope that my parents had fun, and that our lodging would be good. Since it was such a short distance, we walked over…and into an unexpected experience. Chateau Bromont looks like it might be a typical slopeside “grand” hotel…imposing on the outside, rustic in the foyer, functional but unexciting in the rooms. Um…no. The lobby alone was a shock…contemporary and elegant. And our room had an electric fireplace (some rooms have the real thing) for ambiance, a big, elegant shower, interesting decorations. Much different, and much better, than I’d expected! We headed over to my parents’ room…theirs was of the same quality; better than our 4-star hotel in Montreal, by far! Oh, please…let the dining room live up to the bedrooms…

Can you say "this way to a good time???" (Warner Shedd photo)

How had my parents had fared in their wandering? They certainly hadn’t been bored! Given that the weather wasn’t conducive to outdoor activities, they’d focused on the indoors ones. The Eastern Townships are a culinary wonder, with food of all sorts being raised, artisan cheeses produced, even a surprising range of wines. Here’s an amazing statistic…the Brome Lake Duck Farm produces…hold on to your hat…40,000 ducks a week! That’s a lot of mallard or moulard, however you slice it (actually, they raise a version of Peking duck). They’d had a chance to go to one winery, L’Orpailleur, which is one of many in the Townships, and wins loads of awards. Being good boys and girls, they’d limited their sampling, but enjoyed the “Vin de Glace” dessert wine…who said that you can’t make good wine in the northlands? While they were limited in how much wine they could drink, chocolate was another matter…and how can you resist a “museum of chocolate”??? No kidding, the Musee du Chocolat is exactly what it sounds like. You can see the history of chocolate, how it’s produced, sculptures and frescoes in chocolate…and incidentally, actually taste some of the stuff. Shocking. They had what they pronounced as the best hot chocolate they’d ever had…and were told exactly how it was made. Better still, they brought us some of the chocolate back and told me how to do it. Mmmm…we got to ski, and still get the chocolate! With that, and some shopping at boutiques, they’d filled their day, and only wished they had more time. Sorry, Mom, Dad…next trip!

By now, it was time to head down to dinner. The main restaurant at Chateau Bromont, Les Quatre Canards, follows classic French tradition, but with a real focus on local ingredients. Duck (of course!), foie gras, local cheeses and meats…the list goes on. And the food lived up to the reputation…everything was beautifully prepared and presented, the flavors of the main ingredients complemented but not covered by the exquisite sauces. Yes, we had the duck, and it was fantastic…not greasy or fatty at all, as duck often can be. It didn’t hurt that while we ate, we could look across at the mountain, lit up like a Christmas tree for night skiing. And look down at the ski area’s parking lot…packed on a Wednesday night!

8:00 P.M., Wednesday...look at the parking lot! (David Shedd photo)

By the way, SkiBromont.com offers packages with a number of area hotels, including Chateau Bromont. Tip: The bargain deal is with Motel Bromont (no relation to the Chateau!), which has kitchenettes. In the village of Bromont there’s a wonderful Metro supermarket with interesting local foods, as well as the usual things…create your own smorgasbord!

The night,was peaceful and comfortable in our room, and the few times that I woke up, I could see the fleet of groomers working. 4 A.M., 6 A.M…and even at 8 when we were having our breakfast, they were still at it! Clearly, SkiBromont.com is obsessed with giving skiers the best snow that they can.

Skaters enjoying the groomed municipal path in Magog (Stephane Lemire photo)

Alas, we had to head back south, so no skiing for us. But we couldn’t leave the Eastern Townships without one last stop: Lunch! In Magog, at the head of Lake Memphremagog, at L’Ancrage, lunch was of the same quality as everything we’d eaten over the previous few days, with a bonus…out the window, we watched skaters on Memphremagog being pulled along by parasails, and “normal” skaters on a path that the town maintains around the waterfront. It was like a scene out of Hans Christian Andersen…peaceful, rustic, and charming, and a lovely way to end this trip to the Eastern Townships. But, summer is coming…and they have several mountain bike parks…hmm…

Exploring The Outaouais

Tim Jones — Fri, 23 Oct 2009 05:09:27 +0000

The Cyclopark PPJ is a beautifully maintained rail trail which runs through farmland and small towns.

If there’s a record book for longest place names with fewest consonants, the Outaouais (OO-TAH-way) region of Quebec must qualify. It’s a wonderful place to visit in foliage season, especially if you are celebrating something special, like, for example, a honeymoon (or a wedding anniversary next year . . .) .

Outaouais is north of Ottawa, Canada’s capital and west of Montreal. My sweetheart Marilyn and I had discovered this magical mix of sophisticated suburbs, tiny villages, lovely B&Bs, excellent restaurants and warm, welcoming people a few years ago and we couldn’t wait to get back. We recently spent five days there as part of a nine-day Quebec trip, filling our days with (mostly) outdoor adventures and our evenings with great food, great wines, hot tubs and the deep sleep of the well-exercised and well fed.

What could be more appropriate for a Honeymoon than a bicycle built for two?

We had three bikes with us on this on journey—her road bike, my cyclocross bike, and our fat-tire tandem bicycle built for two. The foliage was at peak the scenery was gorgeous, and this is a wonderful place for biking. But an unusual stretch of rainy, cold weather dampened some of those plans.

Our first day, we had planned to bike and picnic in Plaisance National Park which has 26 km of trails along the Ottawa River. We’d biked here before on a beautiful autumn afternoon on our previous trip. But this was a better day for the geese and ducks which flock (literally) to the park than it was for cycling, so we settled into our B&B, napped, and hoped for better weather ahead.

The next morning dawned bright and breezy, perfect for bicycling, but I had arranged for a morning of flyfishing at Kenauk a 64,000 acre reserve in the hills above Montebello. My guide, Olivier, and I spent the morning in a rowboat, catching and releasing more than two dozen fat, strong rainbow trout from “La Loutre” (Otter Lake), one of the smaller ponds in this huge wild area. Marilyn in the meantime, explored the spa at Le Château Montebello a luxury hotel and the world’s largest log structure. I brought back a couple of trout and the chef at Aux Chantignoles, the Chateau’s main restaurant, artfully prepared them for lunch. What a treat!

Late that afternoon, we were able to walk off the big lunch along the banks of the Ottawa River in Gatineau across from Ottawa, Canada’s capital. Beautiful setting, right in the city.

Even rainy days can be beautiful in Quebec in foliage season as this view from the SteamTrain proves!

The next morning was pouring rain. Instead of biking along the Capital Pathways trail network (I wish more American cities had bike paths like these!), we hopped on the Hull-Chelsea-Wakefield Steam Train that chugged and whistled along the banks of the Gatineau River to the little town of Wakefield, where we walked through the light rain, poked our noses into little shops, and admired the foliage along the banks of the river.

Our last two days provided better biking weather—and we explored two beautifully maintained rail trails: Cycloparc PPJ runs 92 km between Wyman and L’Île-aux-Allumettes through rolling farmland and along the Ottawa River. The Vèloroute des Draveurs (cycle path of the log drivers) is an 80 km ride north from Low to Maniwaki through boreal forests of birch, poplar, balsam fir and spruce. This is very different country, wilder, more remote; I wouldn’t ride here in black fly season, but it’s perfect in early autumn.

I’d love to come back and spend several days riding both of these trails. The trails themselves are inviting, the countryside is beautiful, the people you meet are friendly and the entire Outaouais Region is worth exploring. Life isn’t a spectator sport. Get out and enjoy!

EAT, SLEEP, PLAY . . .

You can’t play outdoors 24/7. In Quebec that’s a good thing! They have welcoming lodging options from luxurious to cozy and inexpensive, and the best restaurants you can imagine.

In Papineauville, we stayed at Au Fil des Ans (819-427-5167), with it’s own little breakfast café (buy a brownie for the road before you leave). This is two blocks from my favorite restaurant in the whole world, La Table de Pierre Delahaye (819-427-5027). Try either the steak au poivre or the fish and don’t miss the apple pie.

In Gatineau, Aux Berges des Outaouais (819-561-5241) is a lovely B&B (spectacular breakfast!) the banks of the Ottawa River a short walk to Sterling Grill & Seafood (819-568-8788) which is now Marilyn’s favorite restaurant—try anything with beef. Be careful what wine you order (they have bottles that cost $12,000!–but the $35 house red was excellent).

In Pontiac we stayed with Guy and Denyse Bergeron in Maison Bon Repos (819-682-1498) which was like going home to Mèmè. The Capital Pathway (we didn’t get to ride) was just feet away. That night we ate wonderful Italian in Aylmer at Bistro Ambrosia (819-682-5333), located in an old fire station with stunning artworks.

The Woodhaven B & B (819-647-5858) in Bristol is an amazing log home with a stunning river view (it’s for sale if you fall in love with it). Dinner that night was at the Café 349 (819-647-6424) in Shawville. Friendly waitress and chateaubriand!

Our final night was in Maniwaki at the Château Logue Hotel (819-449-48481). You wouldn’t expect something this nice in a small northern town. They have a wonderful dining room and the The Vèloroute des Draveurs ends in their parking lot.

We hated to come home.

NO FRENCH? NO PROBLEM

Quebec is officially a French-speaking province. I don’t speak French. Marilyn doesn’t speak French. Yet neither of us have ever had any problem traveling, making reservations, ordering meals or just plain having fun in Quebec.

My advice? Learn to say “bonjour” and “bonsoir” “s’il vous plait” and “merci.” Even the slightest attempt to communicate in French produces big dividends as people smile and respond in English.

Smiles are the same in both languages.

Quebec In Foliage Season: The Eastern Townships

Tim Jones — Fri, 16 Oct 2009 05:01:19 +0000

The little town of Knowlton welcomes cyclists with excellent restaurants, and lots of interesting shops.

Even though it’s been raining off and on (mostly off, hooray!) for two of the past three days, I honestly can’t think of any place I’d rather be. My sweetheart Marilyn and I are celebrating a major milestone in our life together with . . .you guessed it! . . . a getaway focused on shared outdoor activities. When we were planning this celebration together, I asked her where she wanted to go and what she wanted to do. She hesitated all of a nanosecond before choosing Quebec in foliage season.

Right now we’re in the Eastern Townships, just north of the Vermont border. Later today we head for Outaouais, the portion of Quebec just north of Ottawa. We’ve hit very near peak foliage and the colors as we’ve hiked, biked, and paddled the last couple of days have been spectacular.

On Sunday, we drove up I-91, crossed the border with no problems at all (remember to bring your passport!) and less than half an hour later were comfortably ensconced at Estrimont Suites and Spa (800-567-7320) just outside Mont Orford National Park. We only had time for a short hike, dodging the intermittent showers, and a blissful, long hot soak/sauna session in their outdoor spa before it was time for a fabulous dinner in the hotel. In the U.S., we rarely eat in hotel restaurants. In Quebec, we make it a point to try them and have NEVER been disappointed. In fact, the quality of the dining is one of the big reasons we keep returning to Quebec. We both love to eat well to fuel our exercise.

After sleeping long and well in a superb bed, we got up early, ate an excellent breakfast and started pedaling our tandem on a segment of La Route Verte.

Later that afternoon we drove to Lac Brome near Knowlton where we checked into Le Cyprès (866-243-0363;) a classic lakeside motel/cottage resort where we had a lovely room with a deep bathtub for two. That night we ate another superb dinner at Les Relais at the Auberge Knowlton, the oldest continuously operating hotel/restaurant in the Eastern Townships. The next morning we biked around beautiful Lac Brome and back into Knowlton for some shopping.

For a change of pace, try paddling on the Quilliam Wildlife Reserve

For a change of pace that afternoon, we canoed through the Quilliam Nature Reserve behind Le Cyprès. The foliage was spectacular, the area was alive with migrating waterfowl and other birds. Even Marilyn, who is not an avid canoeist (she much prefers her kayak), thought it was spectacular.

Our final night in the Eastern Townships was at the Auberge and Spa West Brome (888-902-7663) which boasts a wonderful sauna and heated pool, and yet another excellent restaurant.

News Flash: The sun just poked through the breaking clouds and we are off for a couple of hours of biking through the beautiful rolling farmlands of West Brome before we have to jump in the car and head for more adventures in Outaouais. Too bad you aren’t here to ride with us. Life isn’t a spectator sport. Get out and enjoy!

BIKE ROUTES AND ROADS

The foliage display around Lac Brome was spectacular

Much of the countryside is gently rolling hills that seem flat to a New England rider, the roads tend to be wide enough for comfortable riding, and everywhere we’ve gone in the Province the accommodations, food and services are superb and cyclist-friendly.

La Route Verte or, in English, The Green Route is an $88.5 million dollar system of marked bike routes along roads (many with extra-wide shoulders), and superbly maintained dedicated bike paths that lead you across the province from the tip of the Gaspè to the Ontario border. If you love to pedal, you simply have to check it out. I can’t begin to tell you how wonderful this is. The US is decades behind Quebec in creating and maintaining beautiful, safe places to ride your bike.

Many regions across the Province also maintain their own bike routes and most offer excellent cycling maps to help you out. Plan a cycling vacation in Quebec. You won’t regret it.

TAXI VELO

The Eastern Townships is doing everything they possibly can to make their region more attractive to cyclists. One of the best ideas I’ve heard of is the “Taxi Velo.”

All of the local cab companies in the Townships have cabs set up with racks to carry up to four bicycles. If your bike breaks down beyond your ability to repair it on the road, or you over-estimate your abilities or underestimate the distance, or you just want to cycle point to point without having to loop back to your starting point, you can call a toll-free number (877 766-8356), and they’ll come get you at any road crossing along the designated bike route within the hour. The vehicles can carry four cyclists and their bikes. The set fee is $40 for the first 30 kilometers and $1.45 for every kilometer thereafter.

Champlain Paddle

Tim Jones — Fri, 14 Aug 2009 06:00:16 +0000

Lake Champlain is dotted with islands, and islands are best viewed from the water. This natural rock formation looms over paddlers on tiny Cloak Island.

My sweetheart Marilyn and I explored the islands of northern Lake Champlain, in late June seeking a relaxing mid-week getaway. We found it. If you look on a map, you’ll see why. The Champlain islands are nestled in a triangle with Montreal the northern point, Interstates 87 and 89 forming the two long sides with Plattsburgh and Burlington at the two southern points. Between, there’s quiet

My original plan was to paddle my 17-foot Aquaterra sea kayak from one comfortable inn to another in a large loop among the islands (Isle LaMott, Grand Isle, North Hero and Hog Island while Marilyn (who hadn’t yet discovered that she absolutely LOVES paddling) ) drove our car. We stayed one night each at the Tabor House Inn (802-868-7575;www.taborhouseinn.com) in Swanton, Thomas B. Mott B&B (800-348-0843; www.thomas-mott-bb.com) in Alburg, Ruthcliffe Lodge (802-928-3200; www.ruthcliffe.com) in Isle La Motte, and Shore Acres Inn (802-372-8722; www.shoreacres.com) in North Hero—each very different but all quiet, clean, comfortable and welcoming, with beautiful lake views. If you find these four inns on the map, you’ll see that paddling one to the next would make a wonderful adventure.

Alas, two days of howling north wind and large, choppy waves made travel by kayak on the big lake impossible. But I still got to paddle.

The Missisquoi River Delta on Lake Champlain is a beautiful place to hide from the north wind. That’s the town of Highgate Springs to the right on shore—straight ahead is Quebec, Canada.

One blustery morning, I met up with Catherine Frank and Margaret Holden, two adventurous women who are about to publish “A Kayaker’s Guide to Lake Champlain” (Black Dome Press;www.blackdomepress.com). They knew just where to go to avoid the tearing wind—the Missisquoi River delta, including the Missisquoi River and Dead Creek which flows through the Missisquoi Wildlife Refuge (www.fws.gov/refuges/profiles/index.cfm?id=53520) .

Despite its name—which comes from its lack of current, not from any lack of life along its banks—Dead Creek was very much alive on this early summer morning. Ospreys, eagles, terns and swallows galore soared overhead, herons hunted along the banks and birds sang in the trees. We saw frogs and turtles, large freshwater mussels inching long in muddy shallows, deer and raccoon tracks on the sandy shorelines. I can’t imagine a nicer place for a wildlife lover to paddle on a windy day.

When the loudest noise in your world is the call of a loon at sunrise, you know you’ve found a quiet place. This loon joined me for a paddle on Lake Champlain.

Another morning, after the wind finally blew itself out, I got to taste the deep, ancient silence of the lake itself. I’d paddled out from Isle La Motte to watch the sun rise over the Green Mountains. The human world was still asleep. Natural sounds were everywhere: the lap of waves on the shore, the whisper of the ever-present wind, the calls of loons, seagulls, ducks, geese and the songs of hundreds of land bird drifting out from the islands. The only man-made sounds were gurgle of water swirling off the blade of my paddle and the hiss of water against the hull. It was easy to imagine how quiet the lake must have been when Samuel De Champlain “discovered” Lake Champlain 400 years ago (the Native Americans knew it was there about 10,000 years before that). On this sunny Friday morning, I enjoyed nearly two hours alone before the first motorboat unleashed a flood of noise to drown the peace. I was ready for breakfast anyway . . .

Life isn’t a spectator sport. Get out and enjoy!

PADDLE OR PEDAL?

If you don’t happen to like paddling, be sure you bring your bikes if you visit Lake Champlain. Alburg and the Champlain Islands are laced with “official” bike routes but all the back roads are wonderful for a leisurely bike tour. Marilyn and I rode a complete circuit of Isle La Motte on our tandem bike in an easy hour and a half with stops along the way at the Fisk Farm (art gallery), the Chazy Reef (the oldest exposed coral reef in the world). You could, in fact bike from inn to inn (ask the innkeepers about possible luggage transfers if you don’t want to ride loaded.

There are also two absolutely spectacular rail trails in this area. The Missisquoi Valley Rail Trail (www.mvrailtrail.com), which I wrote about earlier, starts in St. Albans. From there it winds 26.4 miles northeast to the town of Richford, Vermont, right on the Canadian border. It’s perfect for an all-day outing with lunch in either Richford or Enosburg Falls.

The other great bike path in this neighborhood in the Island Line Rail Trail (www.localmotionvt.org/islandline) which runs 12 miles along the waterfront from Oakledge Park just south of Burlington north to Colchester and out, literally across the mouth of Malletts Bay on a causeway made of huge limestone blocks. The views are breathtaking

Most of the time, you have to stop at what’s called “The Cut” a 200-foot gap in the causeway. In August, on weekends, they run a bike ferry across the cut, which allows you to ride all the way into South Hero and farther on the Champlain Islands if you so desire. We’d already pedaled the Island Line from Burlington to The Cut a couple of times, once on solo bikes, once on our tandems. So we got up early one morning, pedaled out to The Cut from the South Hero side, then spent the rest of the morning exploring South Hero by bike—wonderful adventure!

PADDLE TRAILS

My intended paddle route among the Champlain Islands and the Missisquoi River are a part of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail (www.northernforestcanoetrail.org) a 740-mile-long canoe route which starts in Old Forge, New York and ends in Fort Kent, Maine. Champlain is a wonderful place to start section-paddling the trail, which enters the lake on the Saranac River at Plattsburg, New York and threads its way among the islands and up into the Missisquoi. The Trail committee publishes detailed, annotated and useful maps not only of the Champlain section, but also the entire route.

Since I was there, I’ve also discovered that there’s an official Lake Champlain Paddle Trail organized by the Lake Champlain Committee (802-658-1414; www.lakechamplaincommittee.org) a $40 membership get you a copy of their very detailed guidebook.

Trails With No Tracks

Tim Jones — Fri, 12 Jun 2009 17:00:46 +0000

A sea kayak gives you private access to beaches away from the noise and crowds

When you hear the word “trail” connected with outdoor activities, do you automatically think of a pathway through the woods to be trod with hiking boots or pedaled on a mountain bike? If you do, you are, of course, correct, but you are also missing part of a much larger picture.

Over the years, I’ve shared with you information and adventures on a whole host of different types of “trails.” Judging from the emails I receive, most of you feel passionate about your trails, Columns I’ve done on biking rail “trails” and walking urban cultural and historic “trails” have really struck a chord with many readers.

Another whole “trail” option is especially attractive at this time of year. Across the northeast there are water routes that you can explore in a canoe or kayak for hours, days, or even weeks if you have the time.

The beauty of most of these water trails is that they are accessible—at least in part—to anyone who wants to go exploring. Even if you’ve never been in a canoe or kayak you can borrow or rent a boat and play around for a couple of hours on the flatwater sections of rivers, on ponds or lakes or protected saltwater bays. Better yet, you can take a lesson. It’s fun, and as you get better you can explore longer and more challenging routes.

These water trails are beautiful places to explore, and there’s something magic about letting water carry most of the weight as you glide over the surface with almost-silent paddle strokes and listen to the sounds of flowing water, wind (hopefully not to much!) and, if you are lucky, the calls of loons and seabirds.

If you’re looking for paddle opportunities, I’d recommend getting the River Guidebooks published by the AMC (www.outdoors.org) and the paddlers guides to the Adirondacks published by the Adirondack Mountain Club (www.adk.org). These list dozens if not hundreds of day paddling options, plus campsites if you want to extend your explorations.

The Adirondacks, which is a land of ponds and rivers as much as water has some wonderful places to explore by paddle. So does Maine where famous routes like the Moose River Bow (www.jackmanmaine.org/maine-canoe-trips.php) and the Allagash Waterway (www.maine.gov/doc/parks/parksinfo/allagash) are just some of the possibilities to get out and explore a trail where you leave no tracks.

Life isn’t a spectator sport. Get out and enjoy!

NORTHERN FOREST CANOE TRAIL

The 740-mile Northern Forest Canoe Trail (www.northernforestcanoetrail.org), which was officially opened in 2006, stretches from Old Forge in the Adirondacks in New York to Fort Kent in Maine, passing through Vermont, Quebec and New Hampshire along the way. Thirteen published maps detail campsites, portage routes (62, totaling 55 miles), trail signs, and access points along the entire route.

On The Northern Forest Canoe Trail near Jackman, Maine

While it is possible to paddle it end-to-end, and a number of people have done it, most people will do it in sections to avoid having to paddle upstream on some of the 22 rivers and streams along the route. I can’t even imagine, for example, trying to paddle, pole or even line a loaded boat upstream on Maine’s Rapid River,

The NFCT also includes 56 lakes and ponds, which are perfect places to get started if you aren’t a skilled river paddler. And much of the river paddling is easy flatwater with no rapids, You can do a significant portion of the NFCT without ever having to dodge a rock.

While almost any spot on the trail is perfect for a day adventure, the real purpose of the trail is to get people to explore longer. There are campsites along the route. Some of them are brand new, created since the NFCT was conceived. Others were used by Native Americans when they traveled this same route in birchbark and dugout canoes. When you paddle the NFCT, you are touching a significant piece of American history.

If you aren’t into camping, some sections of the route have beautiful inns and luxury B&Bs available. More on this in a couple of weeks . . .

THE MAINE ISLAND TRAIL

Camped on the Maine Island Trail

The Maine Island Trail is a 325-mile long winding salt water route extending from Casco Bay (near Portland) all the way to Machias Bay in far Downeast Maine. Accessible by motorboat, sailboat and, best of all, by seakayak, The Maine Island Trail includes over 150 island and mainland sites which can be used for day visits or overnight camping.

The Maine Island Tail Association. (www.mita.org; 207-761-8225), maintains and monitors these public sites. They have a wonderfully detailed guidebook, published annually, which is available to members only and well worth the $45 annual membership fee. MITA sponsors many events, including island cleanups which are a great way to get introduced to the Trail.

Along the Maine Island Trail you can camp on uninhabited islands, stay in mainland campsites with flush toilets and showers, or paddle from luxury inn to luxury inn. It all depends on your budget and how adventuresome you are.

I first discovered the Maine Island Trail on a three-night, four day guided kayak tour with H2Outfitters (www.h2outfitters.com ;1-800-20-KAYAK) on Penobscot Bay. We paddled among islands and past lighthouses, explored the shore of Isle au Haut, slept in tents on otherwise uninhabited islands, watched dolphins, jellyfish and seabird, ate like kings, swam in fresh water in an old quarry. This was a magic adventure that I intend to repeat as soon as I can.

A number of other guides can introduce you to the Maine Island Trail. The Maine Association of Sea Kayak Guides and Instructors has a full list of certified guides at www.maineseakayakguides.com.

Foliage in French

Tim Jones — Fri, 21 Sep 2007 18:22:18 +0000

Though we were too early for prime foliage viewing, the scenery along the backroads of the eastern Townships was simply spectacular. (Tim Jones photo)

Instead of your usual foliage haunts, may I suggest, instead, driving a little farther and exploring the less-well-known Eastern Townships of Quebec in autumn? Think New England charm with French language (everyone speaks English, too), French flair and French cuisine.

Just over the border (don’t forget your passport!), the Eastern Townships share the same rolling topography with Vermont and New Hampshire: the proper mix of looming mountains, rolling hills and wide valleys. Quebec is the world’s largest producer of maple syrup, with sugar maples in abundance for color.

Quebec is crisscrossed with hiking and biking trails galore. The “Route Verte” is a 4,300 kilometer bike path that connects the entire Province and is now complete through the Eastern Townships. It’s just one of many. And where there are no bike paths the gravel back roads are perfect for quiet rides on a fat-tire hybrid, cross, or mountain bike

My sweetheart Marilyn and I just spent three days of exploring in the Eastern Townships, which included two days of biking Inn to Inn, and, of course simply fabulous food to fuel it all.

We began our trek in Sherbrooke, at the Delta Hotel, a large “business hotel,” convenient to downtown, which becomes a quiet getaway on weekends.

Sherbrooke is the a great town for exploring on a bike. There are bike paths everywhere, around quiet lakes, past beautiful parks, through quiet neighborhoods of beautifully kept older homes. Just a treat to ride. We pedaled away a good share of the morning and only saw a fraction of the town. But our next destination was still 15 miles away, so we headed generally southwest along La Route Verte to North Hatley and the Manoir Hovey. The path was mostly flat, smooth, covered mainly with stone dust where it wasn’t paved, very scenic. Great ride!

In Quebec they take their bike routes seriously. All bike lanes on paved roads are wide and clearly marked. The bike paths are displayed on excellent maps, readily available, and are clearly marked and signed so they are easy to follow even if you can’t function in French. Good thing, because there are so many routes to choose from, it would be easy to get confused.

Quebec takes bike paths seriously. The Route Verte bike path will eventually cross the entire province. Here int eh Eastern Townships, it’s the perfect excuse for riding inn to inn -- and restaurant to restaurant. (Tim Jones photo)

Manoir Hovey, on the shores of Lake Massawippi was more elegant than what we are generally accustomed to, but it’s very, very nice to be spoiled like this once in awhile. I highly recommend the experience. They coordinated moving our car and luggage from Inn to Inn as part of their package.

Our third destination was the comfortable Auberge Ripplecove in Ayers Cliff at the lower end of Massawippi. They have a variety of rooms from the elegant Inn (with spa) to lakeside cottages—we opted for a 100-year-old log cabin set just back from the lake. Perfect.

It would be easily possible to paddle a canoe or a kayak from Hovey to Ripplecove (or vice versa) but we biked. Following excellent directions we pedaled a network of gravel roads over rolling hills (great workout!) past farms and through villages. No traffic, great scenery.

Whether you choose to bike from Inn to Inn as we did, or park yourself at one place and daytrip out from there, the Eastern Townships is a great place to explore on a bike. We were too early for a real foliage experience, but all of the places we visited still had openings for later in September and early October. So even as you read this, it isn’t too late for a foliage getaway in French.

Life isn’t a spectator sport. Get out and enjoy!

RESTAURANT TO RESTAURANT BIKING

Lots of people in Quebec seem to have found the secret to the good life. They get out, get active, enjoy life—and fuel themselves with wonderful food.

OK, here’s the real truth: Quebec has wonderful people, quaint villages, intriguing shops, museums and culture, fabulous scenery, and lots of wonderful things to do. But the real reason we go is for the food. We bike from place to place because it allows us to eat more without guilt.

The food in Quebec is always better than you expect and frequently stunning. Here’s an example, we arrived in time for lunch on our first day, but had no plans for anywhere specific. We stopped in nondescript little roadside spot (didn’t even have a name, just a sign that said “restaurant”), which had salads with absolutely fresh local greens, grilled chicken that was delicately spiced and perfectly cooked, shreds of a vibrant local cheese and a perfect homemade dressing. The price? $8 Canadian.

Another day we stopped at the Café Massawippi along the bike trail and enjoyed a leisurely bistro lunch. Yet another day we picnicked with gourmet sandwiches, cheese, fruit and fresh vegetables packed for us at the Manoir Hovey

Normally I have one hard and fast rule in traveling—never eat dinner in a business hotel restaurant. Let’s just say that, after a day of adventuring, we were happy to break that rule at the Delta in Sherbrooke. The food and wine were orders of magnitude above what you’d expect in a similar setup stateside (try the rabbit in wine sauce with wild mushrooms . . .)

Both Manoir Hovey and Ripplecove are noted for their dining (one reason we chose them) and neither disappointed. You bike in, then feast on seafood, locally raised meats, and local produce, all prepared and served with true flair in portion sizes that satisfy without overstuffing you.

Talk about perfect: all those opportunities for biking, paddling or hiking so you can justify eating—what more could you ask for?

FRENCH LESSONS

You see an awful lot of very fit people enjoying life in Quebec. As we pedaled, we saw other folks out on their bikes, in-line skating along park paths, or simply out walking with the clear intent of getting somewhere and enjoying the experience.

Then, when it’s time to eat, they sit down to a carefully considered meal that’s an experience to be savored. How different from just grabbing something and eating it on the go.

Try it. We find we actually eat less and enjoy it more. Not a bad way to live.