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Heart of the Islands Bike Tour: Champlain Islands,Vermont

Patricia Lyon-Surrey — Fri, 23 Jul 2010 12:29:20 +0000

With a wine tasting awaiting at the end, we were ready to ride on the Champlain Islands in Vermont.

My partner Roger and I have been road biking for 25+ years. Adding variety to our rides keeps us loving the open road. Luckily for us we live in Vermont where biking opportunities are as numerous as, well, cows. Speaking of which — our most-recent adventure was with Vermont Farm Tours. This company offers, guided, culinary excursions for small groups throughout Vermont. The “Heart of the Islands” tour we went on is unusual for them because it is open to the public and teamed with a local event in the Champlain Islands, the annual Open Farm & Studio Weekend, a two-day focus on the history and culture of Grand Isle County.

The ride started at Snow Farm Vineyard in South Hero Vermont. The name Snow Farm and Vineyard seems an oxymoron, but the winery is situated on an island in the middle of Lake Champlain (the U.S.’s sixth largest lake). The local micro-climate makes Snow Farm’s growing season identical to Burgundy, France!

The 10, 24 or 35-mile self-directed loops all included stops at area farms, vineyards, cafés and artist studios. A free massage, roadside assistance and a tasting at Snow Farm Vineyard at the end of the ride made it just that much sweeter. We opted for the longest ride which would take us through South Hero, Grand Isle and North Hero, Vermont. Since we had pre-registered we only had to pick up our packet which included detailed maps with scheduled stops colorfully numbered and described. Altogether there were 38 possibilities!

The ride began with four miles of dirt on West Shore Road. Since I have a road bike, I was not looking forward to this part. However, before we had even gone half a mile a good omen appeared: An osprey flew across the road with what I thought was a fish in its mouth and landed on a tall pole alongside the road; “the fish” turned out to be hay being taken to its nest.

Lake Champlain with wild chicory in the foreground. (Patricia Lyon photo)

The route for the most part ran along the lake and since these are islands we sometimes biked with water on both sides of the road. The lightly traveled roads allowed us to look around without worrying about traffic. This was a good thing! We were treated to views of bobbing sail boats and rising cliffs, and, away across the lake, the Adirondacks of New York.

Sometimes, we biked tree lined roads with shaggy barked maple trees that formed a canopy over us, and past farm fields dotted with freshly baled hay. We came across a stunning antique round barn complete with slate roof and cupola and even spied a dinosaur (or was it Champ, the illusive sea monster of the lake?) in someone’s yard.

Shaggy Maple trees lined parts of our route along quiet country roads. (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo)

Our first art stop was Across the Grain Pottery where raku and traditional pots are created by Sherry Corbin. Hand-thrown bowls that cried out to be touched and covered dishes in unique shapes were set up under two tents, with an offering of chocolate chip cookies and brownies that we couldn’t resist. Unfortunately we were too early for the firing of her Raku kiln. Next time!

At our second stop, Jessica Remmey’s studio specializing in unique photographs of the natural environment, I bought a note card, liking the perspective of a long line of maple buckets photographed at eye level.

In Grand Isle we passed the dock for the ferry to New York State thinking it would be fun to include the 20-minute ferry ride on one of our next bicycle outings. We were now at mile eight and it had been a long time since breakfast. We opted to bike directly to “the gut” which would take us onto North Hero via the only drawbridge in Vermont. Our lunch spot would then be 6 miles up the road.

Draw bridge in the Gut being raised to allow boats to go by (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo)

Just on the other side of the bridge, Roger had the first of his two flats of the day. Not to fear, he is a bike mechanic supreme. When he saw that he had not only flatted but had split his tire he quickly ate a Clif bar and used the paper to wrap the tire at the weak point. It would last 10 miles.

By this time I was really hungry and voted for a fast ride to our planned lunch stop, Hero’s Welcome General Store. The café and bakery are in one of three century-old buildings offering thousands of items including Vermont products ranging from honey to Adirondack Chairs. We had eaten here before and knew that they offered generous sandwiches with names such as “The Norm” for Norman Rockwell and “The T.J.” for Thomas Jefferson. The sandwich fillings hint at the political leanings of the store owners.

The craft of rug hooking (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo)

We ate on the steps of the nearby North Hero Community Hall, a beautifully restored white clapboard building. The North Hero Historical Society had set up all-day demonstrations of rug hooking, hand spinning, wreath making, and basket making on the lawn in front of the building. As we ate, a three-man band played fiddle, banjo and guitar.

This was the turn-around spot for our ride but before heading back we detoured to Savage Gardens, a small farm featuring pastured poultry, organic vegetables and fruit, and plants. An old St Bernard slowly rose and greeted us, tail wagging. The smell of basil wafted from a huge bucket of leaf basil that had just been picked by Hugo Gervais, who along with his wife Amanda, own the farm. He told us we were welcome to follow the path that led to their free range chickens and fenced cow pasture. I think he thought we were flatlanders. We didn’t tell him that I used to have chickens and that we live in Vermont.

Savage Farm roadside sign (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo)

After crossing back to Grand Isle via the drawbridge, the route turned left onto East Shore Road and we encountered our first “hill.” By Vermont standards it was flat, still it was the first time we had to shift down on the mellow terrain of the islands.

Next stop: East Shore Vineyard. Here we were treated to cold water (a hose to cool off with in the mid-80 temperatures), and a wine tasting. Their vineyard has been in operation since 2000 on land that has been in the family for 40 years. East Shore has won some prestigious awards from Tasters Guild including Double Gold for their 07 Traminette. A Rose, a Traminette and a Cabernet Franc were offered (with a cracker in between of course). As the server poured our wine she explained that all the grape vines were winter hardy to -35F and, due to their growing popularity as wine producers, East Shore Vineyard is adding an additional acre each year to their six acre harvest.

East Shore Vineyard grape vines (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo)

I rated the Traminette as number one, while Roger liked the Rose.

Luckily for us Roger’s second flat came just as we pulled up to the Island Homemade Ice Cream cart. This small company’s priorities are taste, fresh, local and organic. We both ordered Black Raspberry, barely talking as we savored both the flavor and the coldness.

Sydney in her grandmother's painting studio (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo)

Flat repaired and back on our bikes, our final stop took us to Linda Coffin at the Maples, a watercolor artist with a studio in her home. When we arrived she was giving a tour to another couple, deep in conversation about her technique. We were shown around by Linda’s 10-year-old granddaughter.

The heat now was unrelenting and we kept thinking about that impending second wine tasting back at Snow Farm Vineyard. Looking at the map, we cut a mile off the bike ride to get back sooner. What a disappointment: the wine tasting was not free as suggested by the brochure and the promised tarts to be paired with the wine had all been consumed. Instead we climbed on the massage table for that free 20 minute massage.

We just may be back again another year for the biking and the wine tasting, rumor has it that this is now an annual event.

Our next organized bike tour is already on our schedule: The Tour de Taste: A Peddling Picnic out of Fairlee, Vermont.

Lounging in the Adirondack Chairs before our return home (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo)

Upcoming Vermont tours:

August 14
HARPOON POINT TO POINT RIDE
25, 50, 115 miles

August 22
PEDAL FOR PAWS-NCAL’S RIDE FOR THE ANIMALS
25, 60, 100 miles

September 19
LE TOUR DE FARMS–10,25,30 miles

Who Says You Can’t Be A Triathlete?!?

Patricia Lyon-Surrey & Barbara Thomke — Fri, 16 Jul 2010 15:02:18 +0000

Have you ever wanted to participate in a triathlon but been intimidated by the idea of all those young, fit athletes and all the training necessary to succeed? Never fear, you can be a tri-athlete without angst by scheduling your own personal “race” day. You don’t need a tri suit, you don’t need to train for months, and you don’t even have to keep to the typical run, swim, bike legs of traditional triathlons.

A few years back, my friend Barbara and I did a spontaneous three-sport day by adding a bike ride to our swim/kayak outing. While reminiscing about the fun we had, and how fit, athletic (and tired) we felt afterwards, we devised a plan for our own personal triathlon. Since neither of us runs, our only rule was “no running!”

Part of making up your own triathlon is discovering new areas and new routes that suit your level of fitness. We would hold our “competition” in the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont: kayaking in May Pond, swimming in Crystal Lake and biking one of the quiet paved roads near the lake. Barbara was concerned about impact on our friendship of any disputes during the triathlon. She was immediately named race director.

Note the store window: "Your Hydraulic Hose Headquarters." Photo by Patricia Lyon-Surrey

Both Crystal Lake and May Pond are located in the town of Barton, Vermont, “the Center of the Kingdom,” population 2780 in the 2000 census. Barton is 40 miles from my house so Barbara met me and we loaded up her car with kayaks, paddles, life vests, bikes, changes of clothing for the various activities and of course snack food: granola bars, dried pineapple slices and raw carrots. We would buy lunch in Barton.

Whole websites are devoted to the right combination of carbs and protein to eat before, during and after a race. We found the perfect fuel stop and a step back into nostalgia at The Step Back Café. Located inside the Barton Pharmacy, it’s an old fashion soda fountain complete with round stools that spin . . . A sign on the wall says “5 cent Coca Cola,” but a hand printed sign underneath states, “this price will not be available during the summer months.” Food possibilities include eggs for breakfast, sandwiches and fries, and of course ice cream sundaes.We order sandwiches to go—grilled chicken and bacon on a roll for me, tuna on whole wheat for Barbara . Both came with a bag of chips–a recommended triathlon food group. The waitress, nickname Lou, was nice enough to pose for a photo.

Lou handing us lunch to go. (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo)

The one lane road to May Pond. (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo)

Twenty minutes later we were at May Pond. The Nature Conservancy of Vermont owns a relatively undeveloped 744 acre parcel that includes 5000 feet of pond frontage and land that rises dramatically onto the western side of Wheeler Mountain. The pond is a “no motor, no swim” area which makes kayaking here a delight–no noise and no bodies in the water. After hoisting our kayaks off the car, our stomachs told us it was time to fuel up.

An “older” couple (they may have been younger than these two sixty-something triathletes) were unloading small kayaks –the only two other people in sight.

May Pond:Eating before the start of the triathlon. (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo)

We watch as he adjusted the pegs in her kayak and showed her how to paddle sitting in a kayak on the grass. He is very solicitous, and she shy. We conclude that they are on a first date. Later we see them at the far end of the pond practicing forward and reverse sweeps that make maneuvering the kayak easier.

Our paddle around the pond can best be described as contemplative and heart-rate-lowering: wind at our backs, water lilies in bloom, and frogs croak loudly. Along the shore blue flag irises waved in the wind and bamboo-like plants rustle. We discover that the underside of lily pads are scummy and that the plopping sounds are made by tiny frogs jumping away from our boats.

Barbara relaxing on May Pond in her homemade kayak. (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo)

Rounding a corner the wind changed, forcing us to pay attention to our paddling. We spotted loon nesting signs posted to keep boats away but no loons, twig piles along the banks (muskrat dens?); long views to what appears to be a tree farm. The highlight of the paddle was seeing a great blue heron hunting along the shoreline.

Do we really have to leave?

Kayak leg total time: 1 ¼ hours

Crystal Lake State Park, located 15 minutes from May Pond, offers almost a mile of sandy swimming beach. Approximately three miles long and about one mile in width, this 778-acre glacial lake is beautifully situated among roughhewn mountain sides. The cold waters are 100 feet deep in places. The large, historic, granite bathhouse has rest rooms, changing areas, and a concession stand where you can also rent kayaks and canoes. After changing to our swimming suits we headed down to the lake.

Transition time: ¾ hour

Crystal Lake State Park, Barton, Vermont. (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo)

Hi, it’s Barbara here, taking over to tell you about our swim and bike legs.

Actually, I don’t know if you could really call our swim a triathlon leg because we didn’t stay in the water more than 20 minutes. Crystal Lake looked inviting, clear and calm. A group of ten year-olds had been playing around on a float and we had been enjoying their giggling and horseplay for a half hour or so during our transition time. With boldness and intention we waded into the sandy-bottomed lake up to our waists before we stopped, then looked at each other a little surprised. We found the water very, uh, ‘refreshing’, as experienced swimmers like to call cold. Pat was about to chicken out but I reminded her that we had agreed to a swim leg, and so we decided at a minimum to dunk our bodies. Once wet, I challenged Pat in a race to the furthermost buoy bordering the park’s swim area and after we got the crawl arms swinging we felt great! “MMMMM,” I think I heard Pat say as she touched the orange float first. She would continue saying MMMMM many more times throughout the day.

Swim leg: 1/2 hour

We toweled off and sat on the thick grass overlooking the lake, warming up under the strong sun. We tromped back into the bathhouse to pull bicycle shorts up over damp hips, a time consuming effort that gave us a glimpse into why triathletes swim and bike in the same clothes!

At the car we unhitched our bikes from the rack and prepped them with water bottles and a map (just in case), donned helmets, gloves and sunglasses. We agreed to a 20 mile ride (tops), allowing ourselves the option of a shorter loop should the effort prove too much.

Transition time to bike: 1/2 hour
We swung into the saddles. Immediately, a steep hill on the park exit road woke us up to the job of pedaling. After crossing over railroad tracks and through a stop light in Barton we began breezing leisurely east along Route 5, known locally as Lake Street, for obvious reasons. Following the shore of this beautiful lake, we took in the view of the cliffs on the opposite shore, a couple of fishing boats bobbing about, kayakers in red boats, and the roofs of tidy summer cottages just below us on the near side. The air was filled with the smell of garden flowers.Traffic was light and we biked two abreast on the wide shoulder, chatting amiably. I thought this might be one of the flattest roads in all of Vermont, right here in the middle of the wild Northeast Kingdom. Could that possibly be?

Bike leg: Pat zooming along Crystal Lake. (Barbara Thomke photo)

As we left the lake a few gentle hills unfolded. The wind was at our backs and the miles ticked by. We were in the forest now with remnants of the lake transformed into swampy areas. We came across a set of six houses that looked strangely identical, like some sort of company housing, all occupied but plunked in the middle of nowhere. A bit further on we spied a four-story abandoned brick factory-type building behind a chain link fence, nearly hidden by the overtaking forest. We stopped to look. I felt a mystery unfolding and an urge to play Nancy Drew! “Let’s go investigate,” I blurted out, and Pat followed me through the locked gate that had been forced open just enough to let a body through.

Inside the main building we looked for clues that would tell us what industry had risen and died here next to a set of double railroad tracks. . . but we came up completely empty. Nothing had been left behind except a huge hook and tackle on a steel cross beam in the ceiling.

Barbara alias Nancy Drew exploring the "mystery building". (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo)

The floor was littered and the walls covered in graffiti. Aargh! We couldn’t figure out the building’s purpose and later web investigation also proved fruitless. The mystery remained unsolved and I felt that I had let Nancy down. The snooping, however, had provided a nice diversion although we were sure real triathlon officials would not have approved.

In another mile we reached our turnaround point and began retracing our route. The strong breeze had been with us all day but now we biked against it. The gentle hills had grown into monsters and it no longer seemed like we had discovered one of the flattest roads in all of Vermont! We became serious bikers, taking turns leading the peloton of one. With this diligence, the first we’d shown in any leg of our personal triathlon, we quickly covered the miles back to the park. Total bike mileage: 20.2. Legs tired. Riders happy.

Bike leg: 2 1/2 hours (counting our stop!)

We stowed our bikes on the car looked at the lake . It was calling to me for a final swim. Pat was hesitant, I’m a Pisces (sign of the fish) and was not. We hit the bathhouse again and emerged in our swimsuits. This time the water truly refreshed us.

Back in our civilian shorts, we were ready to motor home. But wait! Those twenty miles of stoking on the steel steeds had made us hungry. Pat announced that she had saved something special for last – homemade oatmeal and coconut scones. Woohoo! We sat on the grass by the lake for one last look while savoring our treats. We had paddled, swum, biked, swum again and eaten like true triathletes. As race director I declared us the winners!

Transition time: 1 hour

Total time: 6 ½ hours in the sun.

Burlington By Bike On A Summer Morning

Tim Jones — Sun, 11 Jul 2010 13:22:08 +0000

As the sun rises on a summer morning, the causeway on the Island Line Rail Trail is a perfect spot to pedal! (Tim Jones photo)

At the precise moment I’m writing this, the sun is shining, the thermometer says it’s 90 in the shade, well over 100 in the sun, the dew point is well up in the 70s (think “oppressive”) and the lead story on the noon news was how to avoid heat exhaustion and the almost-certain lightning in the forecast for later this afternoon. I can see clouds building to the west and hear the distant rumble of thunder. Welcome (I think . . .) to summer in New England.

Like most folks, I’d prefer it a little cooler—below zero is fine by me—but even in this kind of heat, it’s still possible to make the most of summer. The simplest trick is to get up very early and be active when the world is cool.

Once upon a time a few years ago, my sweetheart Marilyn and I were in Burlington, Vermont researching a story about another of my passions, minor-league baseball. But, as usual, we were looking to take advantage of all the wonderful outdoor opportunities that city has to offer. According to the weather prognosticators, we were in for the hottest two days in several years with increasing humidity each day.

It's gonna get hot later, so get out early for a sunrise bikeride. (Tim Jones photo)

Fortunately, we were based at the fully-climate-controlled Wyndham Hotel, just a short stroll from Burlington’s busy waterfront. So stroll we did late one afternoon—very slowly—down to Local Motion, a non-profit group which promotes bike trails in the area and rents top-quality hybrid cruisers. We rented bikes there and walked them back up the hill to the hotel and put them in storage. (Local Motion doesn’t open until ten o’clock in the morning, so you have to plan ahead for an early morning ride.)

The next morning we were up long before the sun, snacked lightly, drank lots of water, and headed out. In the gray pre-dawn light filtered by the rising mists, the temperature was in the 60s, and a breeze was blowing from the cooler waters of the lake. It felt like Heaven.

By the time it gets hot, you can already have had a fun day out on your bike, getting some enjoyable exercise. (Tim Jones photo)

There are lots of bike paths around Burlington and in the Champlain Valley. But the jewel in the crown is the Island Line Trail, a rails to trails project that runs 12.5 miles along the lake before it reaches “The Cut” where the former railroad bridge is gone. In August, they now run a “bike ferry” on weekends which allows you to continue riding out onto the Champlain Islands .

With the rising sun slowly burning off the morning clouds, and the air still cool, the Island Line Trail was just magical. For the first hour, we had the path completely to ourselves.

Just before the 10-mile marker, (we had started at Mile Two in front of our hotel), the trail suddenly bursts from the woods and follows the old rail line out on a man-made causeway dividing Malletts Bay from the main body of Lake Champlain. The rail line was built on a bed of huge blocks of marble dumped onto the lake bed and filled in with packed gravel. Flat and gently curving, it makes a perfect bike trail for a hybrid or mountain bike.

Don't let the heat keep you from moving. Just get out early while the day is still cool and the trails are quiet. (Tim Jones photo)

We rode out onto this incredibly beautiful stretch of path just as the sun finally began burning through the last of the morning haze, but the brisk breeze off the water kept things comfortably cool. We rode on to the 12.5-mile mark, where “The Cut” prevents you from continuing on to South Hero. Someday, we are going to ride here when the bike ferry is running — probably not at 6:30 in the morning.

As we rode back toward Burlington, the sun began to increase in strength, and the trail became busier with walkers, joggers and other cyclists. By the time we got back to the hotel, it was a HOT summer day. We showered, strolled out for breakfast (try Penny Cluse Café) and got on with the day’s “work”.

That’s the way it should be on a summer morning. Get active early, then relax. Life isn’t a spectator sport. Get out and enjoy!

Inn To Inn In The Rain In Vermont

Tim Jones — Fri, 25 Jun 2010 17:56:45 +0000

Take time to smell the flowers if you bike in vermont in lilac season. (Marilyn Donnelly photo)

David Shedd, the Publisher of EasternSlopes.com is a bike nut. He regularly pedals 40 miles in the rain before breakfast on work days. For fun, he races, sometimes for 12 hours on a mountain bike, sometimes up the Mount Washington Auto Road in New Hampshire.

Most of us will never be that fanatic, but ordinary mortals can have a lot of fun riding a bike and do both the world and ourselves some good. Once upon a May weekend, before Memorial Day (off-season and therefore cheaper . . .), my sweetheart Marilyn and I parked our car on Friday night, never saw it again until Monday afternoon. We spent our days exploring the beautiful, flower-filled countryside of Vermont’s lower Champlain Valley on our Burley tandem bicycle.

We used a service called Country Inns Along The Trail. With one phone call and a couple of emails, we designed exactly the trip we wanted: three nights in three different inns, with about 20 to 25 miles of biking between inns each day. Each inn provided dinner and breakfast, and Country Inns made the reservations, planned a daily route, provided maps and directions, and moved our luggage for us.

We started at the Swift House Inn in Middlebury. After we unloaded our luggage and the tandem, we parked the car and didn't see it again for three days. (Tim Jones photo)

We started in beautiful Middlebury, Vermont with an exceptional dinner followed by a peaceful overnight, they a hearty breakfast at the casual-yet-elegant Swift House Inn. Though we were sorely tempted to linger in quiet luxury, we instead jumped on the bike, pedaled out of Middlebury, promptly missed a turn on the map (my fault, not the map’s) and took a roundabout 30-mile ride through the rolling green Vermont countryside to our next stop in Shoreham. We’d originally planned an easy 20-mile day . . .

A note on maps and route finding: missing a turn is annoying in a car but on a bike it can make the difference between an easy day and a challenging one. Pay attention! We were lucky; my miscue took us through some delightful countryside, and we ended the day only 10-miles more tired than we had planned — nothing Ibuprofen, a great meal and a good night’s sleep in a comfortable bed couldn’t fix.

Vermont weather can fool you. We started out on a sunny morning from the Shoreham Inn in Shoreham, VT, landed later that afternoon at the Lilac Inn in Brandon looking like a couple of drowned rats. But we had fun every inch of the way. (Shoreham Inn photo)

The Shoreham Inn is down-home, super friendly, popular with locals and visitors alike, and really geared (pardon the pun) to cyclists—there’s bicycle memorabilia everywhere. Our hosts were welcoming, the room was comfortable and quiet and the food was hearty and absolutely delicious – perfect for fueling heavy exercise.

On our second day, we started off pedaling in the morning sunshine, rode to the lower end of Lake Champlain where a cable ferry could have taken us across to the restored Fort Ticonderoga in New York . We took a look at the wind-whipped choppy water and the building clouds to the west and decided to forego the fort and make haste to our next inn. By the time we reached the town of Orwell, it was pouring. We continued in a downpour along the mostly-flat road (inches from being closed by flooding) along Otter Creek to the town of Brandon and the warm, and very welcome Lilac Inn, another friendly, casual-elegant, romantic stopover. When we arrives, they treated us like honored guests despite our drowned-rat appearance as we stripped off our soaked raingear in the foyer and headed upstairs for a shower (hot this time . . .) We enjoyed another great dinner, another comfortable bed, and another lavish breakfast to pedal on.

Ready to ride in the rain. The Lilac Inn was a welcome dry refuge, (Lilac Inn photo)

Instead of taking the “pre-planned” route back to Middlebury, we explored gravel roads on our tandem, reveled in the dry weather and lush scenery at the peak of lilac season.

Over the three days, we biked about 75 miles of quiet roads in beautiful settings, burned several thousand calories each, significantly improved our leg strength and cardio capacity, and felt like we’d done something worthwhile. We ate heartily, slept well, and, even in the rain, enjoyed every minute.

You could do it, too. Just get on a bike and go. Life isn’t a spectator sport. Get out pedaling in the rain and enjoy!

Bike Tour Central

If you’re biking in Vermont, be sure to allow plenty of time to just stop and admire the scenery. (Tim Jones photo)

Vermont is bike-tour central especially around Lake Champlain where the rolling terrain makes for ideal riding. Yes, there are some hills to huff-and-puff up, but that means there are also some hills to coast (Wheeee!!!) down. Coasting on a tandem is a lot of fun.

Lots of individual inns, including the three we visited, offer biking packages. You stay in one place, explore the countryside by bike. But there’s always the danger of getting too comfortable (especially if the weather’s less than perfect) and doing more relaxing that biking.

We wanted the built-in challenge of having to get from one inn to the next each day. Because we were new to tandeming on this trip, we wanted to bike alone, at our own pace and the self-guided trips designed by Country Inns Along the Trail let us do that without having to worry about our luggage or reservations. They also provides detailed maps which included lots of side trips and points of interest along the routes. They’ll even rent you a bike if you need one. Their service was impeccable.

If you are just getting started in bicycle touring, you might want to check out the (more expensive) guided full-service trips, where your group is accompanied by a tour guide who will fix a flat tire for you and a “sag wagon” to pick you up if you poop out. Google “Inn to Inn Biking Vermont” and “Vermont Bike Tours” for a complete listing. There’s also a good resource at www.vermontvacation.com, the site for the state tourism board.

Fuel Stops

You are your bike’s engine, and any engine needs fuel. A gourmet dinner and hearty breakfast were part of the package at the inns we stayed in, which left us on our own for lunches. The first day, where there were no restaurants along our (planned) route, we carried sandwiches from Middlebury Bagel & Deli. With our long detour, they turned out to be lifesavers.

In Orwell, we ducked into a little cafe called Made in Vermont to get out of the rain and found a genuine local haven with good food and friendly people who welcomed a couple of oddly dressed, dripping-wet stangers.

Biking Comfortably

Biking in the rain requires good raingear. Otherwise you are wet, cold and miserable.

Staying hydrated is critical when you’re biking. We used small hydration packs instead of water bottles, which we found more convenient. The packs also held snacks and additional clothing.

Bike seats take some getting used to. Before you take a trip like this, be sure to get in a few rides to strengthen you legs and toughen your butt. Carry a small tool kit with you to make seat-position adjustments.

Beat The Heat With Memorial Day Weekend Skiing at Mount Snow, Stowe & Stratton!!!

David Shedd — Wed, 26 May 2010 20:42:22 +0000

Who would have known, months ago, that we’d have record breaking temperatures in New England in May? Apparently, the geniuses at Mount Snow, Stowe, and Stratton Mountain! They stockpiled snow in deep mounds expressly to make sure there was SOME way to escape the heat. Forget the beach…you can get a better tan from the rays reflecting off snow!

2009's Peace Pipe Jam was a show...and this year is expected to be even better! (Mount Snow photo)

On Saturday (that’s the 29th, if you’re suffering from heat stroke already), Mount Snow will be holding their “Peace Pipe Jam.” Apparently, the weather’s not the only thing that’s smokin’ hot. The event is FREE (yes, that’s free, as in you don’t have to pay to get in), with tunes, BBQ, and snow to play in at the bottom of, where else, Carinthia. This is the third year that Mount Snow has held the event, and the word from the mountain is to expect this to be the best yet! Save yourself some time and hassle when you get there, and download the waiver, sign it, and bring it with you…and walk right by the people who are waiting in line to get theirs.

Or, maybe Stowe is where you want to be on the 29th. They are having their annual Last Trick Rail Jam from 11 am to 2 pm on the remains of the halfpipe on Lower Standard at the base of Mount Mansfield. Expect boxes and rails galore, good tunes and a crowd that will throw props your way when you bust out big. Bring your sunscreen and summer attitude.

All of this snow, just waiting at Stratton Mountain for you to play! (Stratton Mountain photo)

Now, if you’re going to make the trek to Vermont anyway, grab a hotel room, pitch a tent, or sleep in your car, and head for Stratton Mountain on Sunday for “Mountain Mayhem.” Another pile of snow carved into sick terrain by the grooming gods, a DJ, BBQ, free stuff…oh, there’s that “free” word again. In this case, it’s the stuff that’s free, not the event…that’ll set you back a whole $20 to get in. Food, music, swag, CASH prizes for the best moves. Since you’ll have gotten warmed up the day before, you’ll be ready to rock the crowd and go home with all of the money and glory. At least, that’s the way it’ll play out in your dreams for the next few nights, but hey, if it doesn’t work out that way, you’ll still have been skiing while everyone else is sweating! Sign up for the event at Active.com in advance if you want to get a few runs in before everyone else does their paperwork. And remember your helmet…if you don’t have it, you won’t be skiing, boarding, or doing anything but eating BBQ, listening to tunes, and letting other people have the big fun! (And if you want some fun for now, go to http://twitpic.com/1ralyz and see what happened to the photographer behind the skier in the pic to the right.)

Remember, this is it until November…get your fix while you can!

First Steps Along The Long Trail

Tim Jones — Sat, 08 May 2010 12:20:38 +0000

That obelisk marks the northern terminus of Vermont's Long Trail. Maybe someday the Trail will extend into the Eastern Townships of Quebec. (Tim Jones photo)

Recently, EasternSlopes.com Publisher and senior editor David Shedd and I both had to be in northern Vermont at the same time. And we both had a day and an overnight free. So we decided to start what we hope will eventually be a section-hike of the entire Long Trail. Neither of us has a spare month or so to thru-hike all 273 miles end-to-end, so we’ll do it one or two nights at a time, and hit every step of the trail on the way.

Though some trails like the Crawford Path in New Hampshire’s White Mountains are much, much older, the Long Trail is the Granddaddy of all the long hiking trails in this nation. Built between 1910 and 1930 by the Green Mountain Club, it directly inspired the Appalachian Trail.

Most folks apparently hike south to north on the Long Trail. At least that’s how the Long Trail Guidebook is set up. Speaking of guidebooks, be sure you get the latest version (2007). Mine (2003) is outdated. Look for updates since 2007 on the website.

Hiking the Journey's End Trail to access the northern terminus of the Long Trail, you pass Journey's End Camp, one of more than 70 shelters available to Long Trail hikers. (Tim Jones photo)

Being contrarians by nature, we started at the northern terminus and headed south. I’ve already hiked the southern section of the Long Trail where it is also the AT. David, who grew up in Vermont, had never set foot on it.

Our plan was deliberately vague. We would carry light overnight packs and, depending on trail conditions (often iffy in the spring) and the timing of our other commitments, either stay at either Journey’s End Camp, less than a mile from the northern terminus of the trail or at the Shooting Star Shelter, 5.8 miles along the trail.

Don't try to access this URL. The "dotcom" stands for "Commander." (Tim Jones photo)

You can’t just start hiking at the northern end of the Long Trail. You have to hike 1.3 miles, all uphill, to get there, on the Journey’s End Trail. We got a late start, hit the trail about 11, passed the Journey’s End Camp and made it to the northern terminus of the Long Trail before noon.

What a gorgeous view at the border! The land drops steeply into the Eastern Townships of Canada where hills roll away to the far horizon. The view is worth the walk. There’s also a bit of humor here. An obelisk marking the border has names on it, one of them: Albert Smith.U.S.Com. Don’t bother to try that web address, though. The marker was placed there in the 1840s . . . and the “dotcom” stands for “Commander.”

Starting south, the Long Trail takes you through a spruce forest on top of a ridgeline. In fact, it follows the height of land all the way to the Massachusetts border. Even in April the trail was firm in most places and the few mudholes we encountered had stepping stones across them. There was still snow in spots and no sign at all that any hikers (other than a number of moose) had used the trail in the winter. Perhaps winter travelers all use the parallel Catamount Ski Trail which is specifically designed for winter use.

At this point on the Long Trail, you are exactly halfway between the Equator and the North Pole. (Tim Jones photo)

We stopped at the Carleton Mountain lookout for lunch, then wandered down to Route 105, 2.6 miles from the terminus and 4 miles from our car. Continuing another 1.8 miles to Shooting Star was certainly doable, but it would mean retracing all of our route in a hurry the next morning. So we backtracked and spent the night at Journey’s End Camp, a lovely and very comfortable new pine-paneled shelter with bunks for eight. We were the only people there—one of the advantages of hiking in mid-April. So we could spread out as much as we wanted for sleeping and cooking dinner.

Cooking dinner at Journey's End after a day exploring the Long Trail. (Tim Jones photo)

At 4:30 the next morning we were awakened by a testosterone-fueled Hairy woodpecker who apparently liked the acoustics produced by drumming his territorial tattoo on the cabin wall. Great alarm clock! After breakfast, a short hike out left us time to drive around to Route 105, and hike to the Shooting Star shelter.

Thus begins a quest to hike the entire Long Trail in sections. We’ll get it done eventually, if not this year, certainly in this decade. The joy is in the journey and the Long Trail a worthy journey indeed.

Life isn’t a spectator sport. Get out and enjoy!

Gear Notes: Long Trail Overnight

Packs:

Tim: Gregory Z-65, my go-to light pack for many years.

David: Go Lite Odyssey

Trekking Poles

Tim: Leki Corklite Aergon Speedlock, Overall the best trekking poles I have ever used. lightweight, sturdy, easy to adjust, great handles.

David: LL. Bean Hikelite 4-season Hiking Poles

Sleeping bags:

Tim: REI Lumen +25 Comfy at 35, not at 25, a little heavy for a 35-degree bag. To see the results of a test of this bag against the LL Bean Katahdin +20, go here.

David: L.L. Bean Katahdin +35

Pads:

Tim: Therm-a-rest Z-rest, replaced by Z-lite, and Insulmat Thermalite, replaced by the Peak Oyl.

David Therm-a-rest RidgeRest and Insulmat Ether

Boots:

Tim: Aku Utah Micro GTX. My go-to midweight boot.

David: L.L. Bean Gore-tex Cresta Hikers

Raingear:

Tim REI Taku jacket and pants, proven bombproof.

David: Red Ledge Free Rein

Stoves: Brunton Raptor and Snow Peak Giga GS 100A

Cookware: GSI Dualist

Headlamp:

Tim: Princeton Tec Fuel 3-AAA

David: Princeton-Tec Aurora (replaced by the Fuel)

Lantern:

Snow Peak Hazuki

Active Seniors: Get Your Kicks On Route 108!

Edie & Warner Shedd — Sat, 24 Apr 2010 23:16:13 +0000

Huh? Isn’t that supposed to be Route 66? Well, yes, if you’re driving a car, but what if you’re going for a snowshoe adventure at Smugglers’ Notch? Now that’s a journey of a different color!

David has recently written quite eloquently about the pleasures of a skiing vacation at “Smuggs”, as the Smugglers Notch Resort is commonly and affectionately known. That inspired us to think about a snowshoe hike (or “swike,” as they like to call it at Smuggs) there, so when we heard that Tim & Marilyn were going to be up there, it seemed like a perfect time to combine a hike and a visit! We met Tim and a couple of very friendly and helpful employees in the rental shop. One of them, generally known as just PK, was to have led a nature trip that morning, but it was snowing enough that most people canceled. Thus it was our good fortune to have him as our very affable and knowledgeable guide.

PK helps Edie figure out a new binding system (Tim Jones photo)

We were outfitted with TSL snowshoes which, it turns out, are actually manufactured in Vermont. These proved to be just a bit narrower than the Tubbs snowshoes that we used at the Trapp Family Lodge, and the binding system was different. Incidentally, we were interested to learn that more people rent snowshoes than skis at Smuggs. There are probably two reasons for this. First, there are likely a lot of people who are reluctant to try skis, which they regard as riskier and more difficult to use than snowshoes. Second, skiers are more likely to own their skis than are the more casual snowshoers.

We were told that, because of snow conditions, we would travel up Route 108, rather than on some of the other trails. That may seem a bit strange to the uninitiated, so a bit of explanation is in order. Route 108 goes up from Jeffersonville, Vermont, through Smuggler’s Notch, and down into Stowe. The road is closed in the winter for reasons that are readily apparent to anyone who has ever traveled this route! While the Jeffersonville side, where Smuggs is located, is a steady, moderate upgrade, the Stowe side is very steep, with incredibly sharp turns, often between massive boulders. In fact, it’s this area that gave Smugglers’ Notch its name, because smugglers were reputed to hide their goods (probably mostly illegal liquor) in the so-called caves in the notch. These are not true caves in the limestone tradition, but rather great jumbles of boulders left by the glacier, some of which form cavelike structures (a fun place to visit in the summer!).

A shuttle bus brought us up to the point where the road was closed, and we donned our snowshoes there. Then, with a moderate amount of wet snow falling, we set out up Route 108. The trail was wide and had been groomed occasionally, so it was well packed and easy going. However, we appreciated the excellent set of metal claws on the underside of our snowshoes, as the packed trail might otherwise have been rather slippery.

Intrepid explorers enjoying a snowy day at Smuggs (Tim Jones photo)

As already noted, the uphill slope was quite moderate – in fact more moderate than we remembered from having last driven the road quite a few years ago. As we snowshoed along, PK pointed out the long, extremely steep slope to our right; this led down to a fairly wide, flat valley floor. This marshy area, PK told us, has a beaver lodge, and he sometimes takes snowshoers down there on nature walks. We were surprised that snowshoes would hold on such a steep slope, but the TSL snowshoes have an exceptional set of metal claws underneath – well able to provide non-slip traction under those conditions. We were unable to see the beaver lodge through the snowflakes and the trees, but we elected not to attempt such a steep slope, good traction or not! Instead, we chose to continue getting our kicks on Route 108, and proceeded upward.

The scenery, though partially obscured by the snow, was lovely, with a steep, wooded slope rising to our left, and a steep, high slope to our right beyond the marshy valley. As we progressed, the steep slopes began to turn into impressive cliffs, which showed that we were drawing close to the Notch itself. At that point, we decided that we had had enough, so we turned around and headed back. As we descended, PK regaled us with various stories and bits of interesting information. One of these tales was particularly bizarre.

One night, a group having a torchlight ski were headed back down the Route 108 trail toward Smuggs, when, to their astonishment, they saw a set of automobile headlights coming up in their direction. They soon reached a car, driven by a young woman, that was firmly stuck in the snow. She had ignored a large “Road Closed” sign and managed to drive around a long, horizontal bar similar to those at railroad crossings. When asked why she had ignored such very obvious warnings, she said, “Well, because my GPS told me to go this way.” GPS systems were presumably designed to be used with at least a modicum of common sense, including recognizing when a road is closed for the winter! Incidentally, it required a trail groomer to pull the hapless woman’s car back down to the pavement. Well worth it for the crew, though, as they got a great story that they’ll be able to tell for decades!

On the descent, Warner’s right foot twice came out of the harness, due to slippage in the heel strap. This had also happened at Trapp Family Lodge, and clearly indicated that his rubber bottom L.L. Bean Maine Hunting Shoe, although great for most purposes, aren’t the best choice for snowshoeing. Instead, something with a firmer structure is required – a deficiency that will soon be remedied.

Edie really enjoyed the TSL snowshoes because they were a little narrower than the Tubbs snowshoes that she had previously used. Warner, more accustomed to snowshoes, didn’t notice any difference. We both appreciated the excellent traction provided by the metal claws underneath the shoes, but we agreed that we found the harnesses on the Tubbs snowshoes easier to use. It was yet another reminder to really pay attention to the details if you’re shopping for snowshoes of your own.

A seed is planted; a late winter waterfall provides an idea for more walks! (Tim Jones photo)

Once again, we found that snowshoeing on a packed trail is a great way to get out and enjoy the winter weather. It reaffirmed our interest in either putting new harnesses on our own (long unused) snowshoes, or buying new snowshoes, so that we can do some off – trail snowshoeing in the woods around our home. The snow has now vanished, however, due to the unseasonably early spring. That means we’re now setting our sights on other adventures that appeal to us, and might offer you good opportunities to get some exercise and enjoy the natural world, as well. Hmmm, perhaps hikes to scenic waterfalls might be a lot of fun; in early spring, some of the small ones may be spectacular with the snowmelt. Stay tuned!

X-C The Way It Used To Be

Tim Jones — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 21:31:54 +0000

Dexter's is a a quaint country inn, snow, and miles of beautiful cross-country trails for "classic" skiing. What more could you ask for? (Tim Jones photo)

Once upon a time all “Nordic” or cross-country skiing took place wherever there was snow. The only tracks were the ones laid down by the first skier of the morning, the only “grooming” took place when skiers sidestepped or herringboned up a hill. One of my first jobs, in fact, was to go out after every snowstorm and lay down tracks on a couple of kilometers of cross-country trails through the woods and sidestep up the steeper portions so paying customers could have an easier time of it. Wish I could still make money doing that . . .

Then came the idea of machine-groomed trails with or without one set of pre-laid tracks. The first cross-country ski “groomer” I ever saw in action was a snowmobile that would now be considered an antique, towing a homemade contraption of chicken wire and 2×4s which smoothed the snow and laid down a set of tracks to kick and glide along in . . .

This simple notion eventually evolved into cross-country ski trails with parallel sets of tracks for “classic” kick-and-glide skis, and, with the advent of skate skiing, to cross-country trails as wide as super highways with two or more tracked lanes and a groomed middle lane wide enough for skate skiers to pass each other.

It’s sort of like the evolution of Alpine skiing, where climbing the hill to earn your turns gave way to rope tows and Poma lifts, then double chairs which eventually evolved into today’s high-speed detachable quads, six-packs and gondolas.

When there’s snow enough, there’s infinite backcountry where the only tracks you see are the ones made by squirrels and the skier in front of you. And there are also plenty of places with wide, perfectly groomed trails. I gave you a list of some of my favorites awhile back.

But are there still any “retro” cross country ski venues that supply all the comforts (like a place to warm up and re-fuel) and still do just enough grooming to allow you to let your skis sing without racing on a superhighway?

The answer is, most definitely, Yes!

No skate skis allowed! The trails around Dexter's are groomed for "classic" skiing only. (Tim Jones photo)

This past winter, I went exploring and discovered the Norsk Cross Country Trails at Dexter’s Inn in Sunapee, NH . This is a lovely old inn located close to alpine skiing at Mount Sunapee in Newbury, N.H.

On their website they state very clearly that they groom for “classic” kick-and-glide skiing, not skate style. And the only skis they rent are longer touring skis—none of these newfangled short racing ski models. My Alpina Discovery Backcountry skis were perfect.

There weren’t any other skiers braving the storm at the Dexter’s Inn/Norsk Cross Country Trails, but these snowshoers were out early enjoying the new snow and getting some exercise. (Tim Jones photo)

It was snowing hard as I drove up. This was only two days after a “hurricane” that had left much of southern New Hampshire without electricity. The trail crew had already cleared branches and fallen trees and groomed about eight kilometers of trail. After getting my trail pass ($10) I hit the tracks and really stretched out to warm up, covering all the trails they had groomed through the quiet woodlands. Then I went exploring slowly and carefully (I was skiing alone) on some of the trails that hadn’t been cleared and groomed yet. From all I could see, this is a lovely trail system that could keep you exploring new routes for a couple of days, at least.

Beautiful, quiet woodland trails, pleasing scenery whenever the snow stopped, it was a perfect morning of cross-country skiing. There’s still plenty of snow and some time for you to “go retro” this winter. Life isn’t a spectator sport. Get out and enjoy!

More Retro Options

If you use classic touring skis and like the “Retro XC” idea, I can think of two more places right off hand that you might really enjoy.

The Landgrove Inn in Landgrove, Vermont (which is about as off-the-beaten patch as you can get and still be in southern Vermont) is another lovely, quiet country inn with a very nice snowmobile-groomed “classic” trail system (and a terrific dining room!) Marilyn and I stayed there one February when it was raining too hard to ski and we still enjoyed ourselves, so imaging how much fun it would be with snow!

Medawisla Morning. There are miles and miles of classic ski opportunities at the AMC Maine camps. (Tim Jones photo)

The other tremendous option are the wilderness camps that the AMC runs in Maine. Medawisla, Little Lyford and partner West Branch Pond Camps all offer excellent “retro” cross country skiing right around the camps, and you can even ski from camp to camp if you wish (they’ll move your luggage for you!) They will be opening a new camp—Gorman Chairback— in 2011, which will make the experience even better. This is a real adventure, one everyone should try sometime.

I’m sure there are dozens of other “Retro XC” opportunities out there! If you know of others, please send me an email (timjones@easternslopes.com)!

Resort Review: Smugglers’ Notch

David Shedd — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 20:40:50 +0000

Ignorance is bliss. And diamonds are NOT always a girl’s (or boy’s) best friend . . . particularly when they’re black diamonds . . .and especially when there are two (or three!) of them. But, more about this in a moment.

The "nice" sice of Smuggs; a family enjoying Morse Mountain (Smugglers' Notch photo)

Smugglers’ Notch is clearly a mountain with a Clark Kent/Superman complex…a true study in contradictions. One one hand, there’s gentle “Smuggs”, home of Mogul Mouse, Billy Bob Bear, unlimited hot chocolate, and the Family Fun Zone; very mild mannered. But on the other, there’s “Smugglers’ Notch” with all of the adventure, rough-and-tumble, and rugged character that the name implies.

Want more contradiction? The centerpiece of Smugglers’ Notch is Madonna Mountain. Such a charming, sweet, warm name for a mountain with some of the most savage terrain in New England. Superman himself might find that The Black Hole was his skiing Kryptonite. And that’s the real joy of Smuggs; you get to pick which personality you want to live with at any moment, rather than having to wait for Superman to show himself.

Dead center, Madonna Mountain lurks, waiting for the unwary (Smugglers' Notch photo)

Smuggs isn’t really a contradiction; it’s a total experience, one unlike anything else in the East. This resort has, for decades, focused on creating a village atmosphere, providing virtually anything that a family could want right there at the mountain. Unlike most major Eastern resorts, Smuggs’ lodging is totally condo based…no hotel. That gives great flexibility for accommodating large families or groups, plus a greater sense of privacy and a more relaxed atmosphere.

That, of course, made it a great place to take our family during vacation week in February. There were 5 of us; me, Susan, Rob (19), Matt (17), and Dan (12). We stayed at The Tamaracks, in a two bedroom condo (they have larger units, too) that’s a few years old. The condition was outstanding; if I hadn’t known better, I’d have thought it was brand new! And the layout was perfect for a family; one master bedroom with a lovely bath, a large kitchen/dining/living area with a gas fireplace, and a second bedroom with 3 beds. That’s unusual…I don’t think I ever remember staying at a place with that layout. It meant that instead of putting someone in the living room on a pullout, everyone had a nice bed. A nice touch that…no whining, no fighting, and no waking kids up when we wanted our peaceful early morning cup of coffee!

Of course, if the kids HAD been up, we’d have had escape options. Everything at Smuggs is reachable by shuttle; park your car, put the keys away for your stay. We could have gone down to the Morse Mountain Grille for coffee and breakfast, or into the Green Mountain Deli…both open at 8. The Country Store, a remarkably fully stocked place if you want to cook in your condo, has coffee available at 7:30, but you’ll have to walk for it; the shuttle doesn’t start until 8:00. Luckily for us, the boys had NO interest in getting up early, so we had our quiet time to get ourselves put together, and then figure out exactly when to get who to where.

And confusing it was, because we had 4 of us in lessons at Smugg’s “Snow Sports University!” Of course, with Smuggs’ typical attention to detail, the lessons for the young kids start earlier than those for adults, making it easy to drop them off and get to your lesson on time.

A teenager actually ENJOYING a lesson; Matt (center) listens to a pro (David Shedd photo)

Dan was in what’s called the “Notch Squad,” an all-day affair with a small group and an instructor. True to Smuggs’ form, lunch was even included. He was in the lessons for 2 days, and had enthusiastic, fun instructors who really made him feel confident. Dan’s been a somewhat timid skier; lots of V skiing and not that much enjoyment, although he’s certainly tried hard. And, at the end of the second day, I picked him up and took him out for a couple of runs, just the two of us. Afterwards, I took off his helmet just to make sure it really was Dan…his skiing was unbelievable! S-turns on his edges down blue runs with the usual late-afternoon chowder, zipping off into the glades, skiing the edges of the trails; it’s hard to believe that he made gains THAT obvious in just two days. Clearly, Smuggs has the teaching young kids routine down pat…but what about teenagers? Well, Matt was in the “Mountain Explorers” group, which is a 1 1/2 hour small group session. It would be best to characterize his mood about taking a lesson as “grumpy”; his big brother was off playing on the slopes, and he had to go to school. Well…it wasn’t too much later that he, his instructor, and one other student whizzed by us, then stopped a few hundred yards down the mountain to talk. I, being a nosy sort, headed down…and it was obvious that he was paying close attention to what the instructor was telling him. When asked later, he said that the instructor was “cool”, and had some “sick moves.” And, when we later ended up on a double diamond, Matt was in control and having fun, clearly he’d gained both skill and confidence from his lesson.

Bennett making absolutely sure Susan understands what he wants her to do (David Shedd photo)

Susan, who is a talented athlete but an inexperienced skier, went for a 2-day MAX5 school. That’s a 2 1/2 hour lesson with one instructor and a maximum of 5 students. Her instructor, Bennett Greene, at first thought she didn’t belong in the level 5 group that she was in, as she was easily handling blue terrain. But, after a couple of runs, he realized that she was making up for bad technique with sheer power. That’s when he started in on her. Over the two days, he took her from the classic “Z” shaped turn that’s caused by abrupt overpowering of the ski at the start of the turn to smooth, controlled, carved “S” turns. For me, it was fascinating to see the variety of techniques he used. He’d watch her ski, stop her, and explain what he wanted her to do. The reality is, each different point he was making had exactly the same goal…but he was fine-tuning them to her learning style. One in particular resonated with her; Bennett called it the “bicycle”. Since she IS a cyclist, thinking in terms of how she shifts her legs in the bicycle pedal stroke was intuitive for her…and immediately, her turns changed. And once he had her confident in those turns, why, it was time to take her into the glades!

Now, imagine this. You’re a skier who works hard on blue trails, skidding your turns, feeling questionable about your control. And then, less than 2 days later, you’re working your way through a blue glade, feeling in control, taking it turn by turn, not being scared but having fun. That’s what a top-quality instructor can do for you…and Smuggs has put untold time and money into making sure their system is as good as any in the East. It worked for Susan…and even for me. Spending the two days listening in was an eye-opener. For instance, I’ve never been a good glade skier, but after a day with Bennett, I started going into them and having fun, too! Good thing I did, as it turns out…but more on that later.

The fact is that virtually any skier can be improved by lessons. We all have bad habits (look at the Olympic skiers; they’re constantly being coached!). Yet, we virtually never take them. Why? Dunno. Compared to lift ticket prices, lessons are cheap, and if they make things easier for you, if they keep your legs fresh so you get an extra run (or two!) each day, how much is that alone worth?

Now, we didn’t spend the entire day in lessons. After lunch, we were free to play on the mountain, so the 4 of us (Dan was still in his lesson) headed up Madonna. We’d been skiing on Sterling, which has excellent terrain, but Madonna’s the big league. True to form, we quickly made an interesting mistake, and headed down Upper F.I.S. Lovely trail, fast and a little bumpy. Oh, wait, it’s a double black diamond that deserves its rating! Susan had never been on a double diamond before. At the very top, she reverted to her old form: tentative, leaning back into the hill, a typical scared and out-of-control skier. But at the first stop, a quick reminder of “what did Bennett tell you to do?”, and suddenly she was headed down the fall line, completing her turns, controlling her speed. At the bottom, she was laughing! That’s a spectacular gain in self-confidence, beyond the actual gain in skill level. Three experiences with instructors at Smuggs, three winners! Matt, already a strong but cautious snowboarder, came down F.I.S. with more ease and style than I’ve ever seen from him; his gain, like Susan’s and Dan’s, was both in skill and confidence.

Hard to see with white-on-white, but Doc Dempsey's is a stunning run! (David Shedd photo)

Of course, Susan wasn’t the only one to find herself in terrain she wasn’t expecting. I’d been warned in advance about the challenges of “The Black Hole” (a triple diamond), and the double blacks surrounding it, Freefall, Madonna Liftline, and Doc Dempsey’s Glades. Being a cautious sort (some would say “chicken”, and I wouldn’t disagree), I looked at the brutally steep and mixed boilerplate/powder bumps of The Black Hole, and decided that maybe I’d wait for another day. But, those doubles…they looked like fun! And, they were. Conditions were excellent, Mother Nature having provided us with close to a foot of new snow overnight. And I’ll say it right now…anyone who can’t find a challenge in those trails had better be starring in Warren Miller movies. They’re steep, they’re narrow, and they’re NOT “tamed” by bulldozers; these are real, old style New England trails. Doc Dempsey’s, in particular is a hoot and a half. The first plunge is barely glades…I don’t think that there are all that many trees that WANT to live on a slope that steep. Then, it turns into almost a cave, with deep snow and huge bumps under fir trees. Absolutely gorgeous! And with Bennett’s help, my glade skiing had improved enough that I felt confident and actually had fun working through the terrain.

After that much fun on Doc’s, I was prepared to head back up and do it again. That’s when I made my mistake. Standing in the lift line, I started talking to a local and his daughter, and they offered to take me into some, um, unmarked glades (Smuggs’ policy for off trail use is, effectively, go for it, be smart, enter and exit only from open trails…which we did) down at the bottom of Freefall. That’s a scary thought for someone new to the glades, but how often do you get a free guide? So, up we went. Rather than take a normal route to Freefall, he took me through some glades to get there, got a little lost…and we came out on something very different than I had ever seen on a ski hill. Thanks to the Flaik GPS system that was strapped to my leg, there was NO question about it; I went back later, and yes, it was The Black Hole. That is one intimidating trail; looking down it reminds me of being on top of the Empire State Building. Nothing for it, though, but to get down. Turn by turn, working carefully, I confirmed one thing; it absolutely, unequivocally deserves its triple diamond rating! Halfway down, my legs were burning…but it was worth it. Seeing the confirmation on Flaik’s website was exciting; yes, I HAD skied it! We didn’t complete the whole trail, as my guide wanted to shoot off into the glades, but did the steepest upper section…which was enough. By the way, if you’d like to see how the Flaik system works, go to www.flaik.com, username dshedd, password Smuggs1; you’ll be able to see my whole day. Very cool technology! And, now I want to go back and get better at The Black Hole. It’s not just a straight, steep trail…it’s actually fun.

So, now I’d survived “The Hole,” but what about those glades? Well, a combination of new confidence, a local who knows them well, and a foot of fresh snow is a pretty good recipe for a good time. Acres and acres of beautiful mixed hardwoods and softwoods, steep terrain, and soft landings…it was stunning. And for the first time ever, when I looked at my watch and realized it was time to head for Morse Mountain to pick Dan up from his lesson, I was disappointed to have to move out of the glades and onto the regular trails. It was just another “wow” moment from Smuggs…or, more accurately, from Smuggler’s Notch. I’d truly found the “Superman” side of the resort, and started to understand the fanatical devotion of the season’s pass holders that I’d been speaking to. Many of them drive by other excellent resorts to get to Smuggs, and it’s the untamed, timeless beauty of that section of Madonna Mountain that keeps them coming back.

On the other hand, there’s the returning vacationers who have their own reasons for coming back to Smuggs. One family told me that they were on their fourth year in a row,and the main draw for them was Airboarding! That’s right, not even skiing: it was the fact that they could also have silly fun bombing down the slopes on a ridiculously fast sled, and then jump on the chairlift and head right back up again.

One crazy Airboard instructor, showing us how to fall off correctly (David Shedd photo)

Of course Dan and I just HAD to try it. I’m going to warn you about two things before you try it, though. First, spend some time at the gym doing upper body workouts…it’s HARD to turn those sleds when you’re going fast! Second, wear your warmest, most waterproof boots, and make sure that your pants are plenty long; in fact, if you have gaiters for snowshoeing or hiking, wear them. I’ve never gotten that much snow in my boots that fast, even when I was a kid. But, it’s silly fun, particularly when (not if, but when) you fall off and go rolling down the slope…the instructors actually teach you the best technique for rolling back up onto the sled. If you’re like Dan and me, you’ll be falling off just to try it…sort of like Eskimo rolling a kayak, without worrying about drowning! There were times I could hear Dan cackling from a hundred yards away, he was having so much fun.

You know it's been a good day on the mountain when all they have energy for is Facebooking their friends to tell them how much fun they're having! (David Shedd photo)

When you come right down to it, there really is something for everyone at Smuggs. From easy terrain to perhaps the most rugged in New England, from Airboarding to pools and hot tubs, the Fun Zone, Teen Alley, you name it., You’d have to try to find a way to not have something fun to do. Our biggest problem was that we were only there for 2 nights; we just didn’t have the time or energy to do everything! Even the inexhaustable teenagers decided, on night two, that maybe just hanging around in the room after dinner would be just fine. Thanks to Smuggs’ resort-wide WiFi network, they managed to connect to their usual network of friends and taunt them for missing out on the fun. One thing’s for sure: I want to go back! Trying some of the things we missed, repeating some of the things we liked best, just enjoying the experience they’ve put together for their guests, they all sound good. Bottom line: we all have a “warm fuzzy” feeling about our trip to Smuggler’s Notch. Okay, so maybe they really are right about that whole friendly “Smuggs” thing . . .but Madonna’s still out there waiting, calling to me . . .

Active Seniors: Snowshoeing At Trapp Family Lodge

Edie & Warner Shedd — Mon, 15 Mar 2010 18:22:23 +0000

The Trapp Family Lodge brings European charm to Vermont (Warner Shedd photo)

Thanks, at least in part, to The Sound of Music, everyone in this part of the world – and a lot of the rest of the world, too – knows about the Trapp family. And, it happens that the Trapp Family Lodge is in Stowe, Vermont, which is less than an hour’s drive from us. The family, their lodge, and things such as their network of cross country ski trails have assumed iconic status. When a very good friend told us how much fun she had cross country skiing there, it planted an idea in our heads.

We – and Warner in particular – used to do some cross country skiing in the woods around our home, but it became tough slogging for us, since we constantly had to break trail, usually in soft, deep snow. The idea of groomed trails appealed, except that Edie was too afraid that she’d fall and break a bone. Skiing was not the only option, though: what about snowshoes, particularly with poles?

At one time, Warner did a ton of snowshoeing while working as a forester. These were with old wooden-frame shoes with varnished rawhide webbing. He always used the long, narrow variety with a substantial upturn on the front, variously known as Alaska or pickerel snowshoes. They served him very well, but there was no denying that the all-leather harnesses were often a royal pain. Going up a steep grade, for example, the heel strap would stretch as his foot slipped backwards. Then, as his foot shifted forward going downhill, the loosened heel strap would frequently come off, necessitating a halt to tighten everything up again! Fast forward a great many years, and we purchased modern, aluminum frame snowshoes with plastic decking. These performed admirably except for one thing; despite a distinct improvement in the harnesses, they were still a pain to put on and take off. Edie, in particular had great difficulty in properly adjusting her harnesses each time, and the snowshoes gradually languished in our storage shed.

A new era had dawned, however, as we read about the ease of using the latest versions of snowshoe harnesses. Well, we thought, why not head for Trapp Family Lodge, where snowshoe rentals are available, and try the new wonders on groomed trails? And so, on a beautiful sunny morning, we found ourselves en route. On the way, we were treated to some gorgeous views of Mount Mansfield, Vermont’s highest peak. With its upper reaches gleaming a brilliant, white, Mansfield was in its most resplendent finery.

Modern snowshoes are much smaller and easier to use than older styles! (Warner Shedd photo)

We chose to arrive at mid-morning on a weekday, on the theory that the trails were likely to be less crowded then. When we pulled into the parking lot by the Trapp Outdoor Center, our theory was proven correct, for it was only half full. Inside the Center, we were directed downstairs to the area where rental snowshoes and skis were available. A young lady greeted us, and we told her what we were looking for. She proved to be not only extremely friendly and helpful, but also knowledgeable and professional. In short order she outfitted us with Tubbs Venture 25 snowshoes equipped with React bindings. Along with these went Rossignol ski poles for Edie and Leki poles for Warner. Then she showed us how to work the bindings, which proved to be a revelation. All we needed to do was push a foot all the way forward in the binding, pull on two straps on the top of the boot, flip a little plastic lever on each to lock the straps, and then put a strap around the heel and fasten it tightly. This can be done almost as fast as you can read this paragraph!

We then inquired about relatively flat trails that we could navigate easily, and were directed to go out on the Fox Track Trail, then back on the Sugar Road Trail. An excellent map was also provided for our guidance. With that, we went outside and put on the snowshoes. They went on as easily as they had in the shop, and we set forth. After about a hundred yards, the heel strap slipped off on Warner’s right boot. This was likely due to the fact that he was wearing “Bean boots”. The heel area of these is soft, which meant that the heel strap simply needed to be tightened an extra notch; a firmer boot, like Edie’s, would make it a little easier to use the snowshoe bindings. After that one glitch, though, the harnesses were perfectly secure.

Getting lost at the Trapp Family Lodge just isn't an option, thanks to excellent signage (Warner Shedd photo)

This trail was in the open for the first two or three hundred yards, then entered the woods – a pretty area of maples and birches. Occasionally someone on skis came up from behind and passed us, or we met skiers heading back toward the Visitor Center. The groomed trail was about 14 feet wide, so there was plenty of room for us without interfering in any way with the skiers. The terrain was quite flat, with only occasional small rises or descents. This made the walking easy and pleasant, and we took our time in order to enjoy the scenery and the experience…perfect for beginners! The land sloped downhill to our left, and we could catch occasional glimpses of skiers – and a fellow snowshoer – below us on the Sugar Road.

Along the trail we encountered something that we had never seen before – skiers towing tiny sleds that contained a baby or very young child, snugly enclosed in its own little cabin. Why, we asked each other, hadn’t someone thought of such a clever arrangement when our children were little? Apparently, it’s not just snowshoes that have improved!

"Maria's Bench" welcomes you to relax. Notice the sap buckets on the trees behind! (Warner Shedd photo)

When we reached the junction of the Sugar Road, it was perfect timing for turning around; unaccustomed to snowshoes, Edie was beginning to feel a little leg strain, and didn’t want to push too hard at this early stage in our adventures. As we turned back along the Sugar Road, the reason for the name became obvious: here there were some larger sugar maples, and these were hung with buckets to collect the sap for making that delectable golden syrup. Near one of them was a bench and a sign that read “Maria Plaza.” This, we realized, was the spot where Maria, the matriarch of the von Trapp family, used to come during her later years to enjoy the peace, quiet, and beauty of nature. That inspired us to stop for a few moments to do the same.

Snowshoers and XC skiers share the beauty of the day (Warner Shedd photo)

As we emerged from the woods and approached the Visitor Center, we could see that the parking lot had filled up greatly in the short while that we had been absent. Already there were many more skiers headed out, and we were glad we’d decided to come mid-morning on a weekday. One of the advantages of being retired; we can do what we want when we want! While there was no conflict with the skiers, it was certainly easier to snowshoe the trails when we didn’t have to be concerned about getting in their way.

The snowshoes and poles had performed admirably. The Tubbs Venture 25s are small snowshoes, making them easy to walk in and ideal for a groomed trail. One particularly nice feature of these snowshoes (and larger models, as well) is a set of toothed metal grippers on the underside, which keeps the snowshoes from slipping in all sorts of going. Warner, remembering all too well the days of slipping and sliding on steep slopes with the old-fashioned snowshoes, thought that these were an enormous improvement! If you’re thinking about getting snowshoes for yourself, you might want to read EasternSlopes.com’s snowshoe test.

It’s difficult to tell how far we traveled; maybe we should get pedometers! However, the round trip on the two trails probably amounted to something like three-quarters of a mile. As it turned out, Edie was wise to limit the distance on this first outing with snowshoes; that night she developed a cramp on the inside of one thigh – the product, no doubt, of walking a bit differently while wearing the unfamiliar snowshoes. Lesson learned…don’t push too much too soon while you’re getting back into shape, or trying something new!

After returning the snowshoes, we decide that we deserved a little treat, so we took ourselves off to the Trapp’s Tea House. There we enjoyed some excellent coffee, delicious roast beef sandwiches, and very friendly service. Warner ended up by sinning greatly: he simply couldn’t resist a piece of the wonderful Black Forest cake! It was nice to learn that the food at the Trapp Family Lodge lives up to everything else we encountered there.

Looking back on the trip, we agreed that snowshoes on a groomed trail are an excellent way to get out and enjoy the winter scenery. This can be as easy or as physically challenging as you wish, depending on the trail(s). Going to the Trapp Family Lodge, or some place that rents snowshoes and can show you how to use them, is a great way to see how it will work for you. It also led us to think about snowshoeing off-trail near our home. We’re going to look into the possibility of replacing the present bindings on our own snowshoes with a set of the React bindings, or simply getting new ’shoes. Then, with the much greater ease of putting them on and taking them off , we’ll be a lot more apt to get out and exercise in the winter woods. It’s amazing how, after only a couple of little trips, we’re starting to see all sorts of possibilities for both exercise and fun, even in the winter!