EasternSlopes.com » Kahtoola snowshoes

Snowshoes Put To The Test

Tim Jones — Fri, 05 Feb 2010 19:29:33 +0000

Testing snowshoes is a tough job, but someoner has to do it! (Tim Jones photo)

After my recent story on choosing snowshoes, so many of you wrote asking for the results of the EasternSlopes.com snowshoe tests that we’re sharing them with everyone before the test is complete.

We aren’t writing about every snowshoe on the market. Not even close! That’s because we haven’t actually tried all the snowshoes on the market, and we won’t write about anything we haven’t actually used.

We have put in a lot of miles on some of these snowshoes. These are real miles, on packed trails, icy crust, and untracked powder on flats, steeps and sidehills, with packs on and without.

We deliberately try to break snowshoes. So far, we’ve (mostly) failed . . .

Here’s a look specific snowshoe models we’ve actually used. In some cases, the tests are still incomplete and we’ll be adding info and opinions as the winter progresses. We also hope to be testing additional shoes this winter. So stay tuned! If you agree or disagree with any of our assessments, please feel free to post a comment, we’d love to hear about your experiences.

Tubbs Couloir 30 ($200-250), 5.5 lbs/pair; 9×32 inches

Tubbs Couloir 30 (Tim Jones photo)

My everyday go-to snowshoe is the Tubbs Couloir 30. I used my first pair so often the plastic decking began cracking where it wrapped around the frame. Tubbs replaced them without questions and I’ve had no issues since. The Couloir is wider (9 inches) than some other snowshoes which provides more flotation, though some people might find it too wide.

The binding on this shoe is as good as I’ve ever tried–very easy to get into and out of even with mittens on—just be careful to keep the flip-up catch that secures the heel strap clear of ice. The binding pivots easily so the tail of the shoe drags as it should and any snow on it slides off as you lift. The binding also flexes slightly side-to-side which may help the shoe stay flatter on the snow for better traction when sidehilling. An easy-to-use flip-up wire heel riser makes long climbs less tiring on your calves. Nice touch. The aggressive steel claws stay sharp and traction is excellent in all conditions.

For several years now, My sweetheart, Marilyn, has used the Tubbs Odyssey 25 (9×25 inches) Women’s which has since been replaced by the upgraded Women’s Couloir model. She simply loves the shoes, has no trouble at all handling the bindings with mittens on. She’s happy, I’m happy.

TSL Over The Top 30 ($220) 6 lbs/pair; 8×31 inches

TSL Over The Top 30 (Tim Jones photo)

These aluminum-frame snowshoes are made in Vermont. They are slightly heavier than some other snowshoes, but bombproof–you couldn’t break them if you tried, and I’ve tried. The 8-inch width makes for more natural walking but a little less flotation.

The bindings are solid, very positive, comfortable but take some tinkering to fit. Once set up they are easy to use even with mittens. The heel lift is awkward to engage and disengage without removing mittens, but there when you need it. The steel traction cleats are long, sharp and aggressive. These are my favorite snowshoes for hard crusted snow.

TSL 227 Escape ($150) 4.8 lbs/pair; 9×29 inches

TSL 227 Escape (David Shedd photo)

These lightweight composite snowshoes look like they’ll break instantly. Three seasons later and many miles with heavy packs in tough conditions, they’re still going strong. The plate-style bindings are easy to use once set to your boot, comfortable, supportive and have a flip-up heel lift. The ribbed composite deck grips well on softer snow while six stainless-steel spikes and a traction claw grip on hard snow. A little “keel” hanging off the back end helps the shoes to track straight. David’s sweetheart Susan loves these shoes.

LL Bean/Tubbs Pathfinder (159) 4.6 lbs/pair, 9 x 31 inches

LL Bean/Tubbs Pathfinder 30 (David Shedd photo)

I haven’t given these a full test, but they cost much less than the top-of the line Tubbs and even less that the (nearly?) identical Ventures. With a lighter, less expensive shoe you give up some features such as the heel lift. The binding allows a little more random foot movement and the heel strap is harder to tighten, but it works with mittens on. If you only occasionally head up steeper mountains with a pack on, it appears these will do just fine and you’ll appreciate the lighter weight on the easier trails.

Yukon Charlie’s Guide 825 ($125) 4.8 lbs/pair, 8×27 inches

Yukon Charlie's Guide 25 (Tim Jones photo)

Yukon Charlie’s shoes have been redesigned since I got these but the basics remain the same. For inexpensive snowshoes, the quality is surprisingly good, though they are relatively heavy overall,. The bindings are solid and easy to use with two ratcheting buckles over the boot and a simple heel strap adjustable for length. The traction claws are aluminum and dull easily but work fine on crusted snow. Worth a look if you are walking on easy terrain and don’t want to pop for bells and whistles you don’t need.

LL Bean Winter Walker 30 ($119) 5.25 lbs/pair, 9 x 30 inches

LL Bean Wilderness 30 (David Shedd photo)

Impressive in early testing, these look to be a genuine a bargain for a recreationalsnowshoe. Lighter than some other inexpensive shoes. Bindings are fairly simple to use with some practice. We lent them to novice snowshoer Matt Marean and he had some difficulty figuring out the bindings initially, but no trouble once he’d used them a bit. We’ll have a lot more later when they’ve seen more miles on varying snow conditions.

Kahtoola Flight Deck TS24 ($274), 4 lbs/pair, 9×24 inches

Kahtoola TS 24 (David Shedd photo)

Unique, dual-purpose snowshoes. A separate cleat system straps to your boot, serves as an aggressive traction creeper when you don’t need the flotation of the snowshoe. Cleats snap onto the aluminum-frame snowshoe deck (three sizes available). Neat, simple, works extremely well when the deck is on a firm surface, harder in deep snow. A pull tab releases binding easily. The decks are low profile, easy to carry on a pack. The ONLY flaw is the tight toe cords which don’t allow the deck to pivot freely. You pick up weight of the entire snowshoe and any snow on it with each step and it flips snow onto your legs and back. . . Annoying.

LL Bean Trailblazer 30 ($220 includes special winter boots with step-in binding), 3.2 lbs/pair, 8 x 30 inches

LL Bean Trailblazer Step-In (David Shedd photo)

Another intriguing step-in snowshoe binding concept, this one free-pivoting so decks shed snow. Spring-loaded steel pins snap into metal detents built into very comfortable winter boots that you could wear anytime you are out in snow. The connection point looks flimsy, but neither David nor I have been able to break or twist out of them—not even wearing a 50-pound pack! The step-in feature works easiest on a firm surface—more difficult in deep snow. Simply push with the tip of a ski pole to release. Much more testing needed this winter!

MSR Lightning Ascent 30 ($250), 4.4 Lbs/pair, 8×30 inches.

We tested these serious snowshoes on on a variety of snow conditions from wind-drifted powder to frozen crust to rotting corn snow and they passed all tests with flying colors. Strong, stable lightweight aluminum frame, excellent grip and flotation in all snow conditions, even with a heavy pack. Heel riser flips up easily for climbing. Like all snowshoe bindings, this one has a (short) learning curve but there is absolutely nothing bad to be said about these shoes.

MSR Denali EVO Ascent, ($170), 4 lbs/Pair, 8×22 inches,

MSR Denali EVO Ascents with Flotation tails (Tim Jones photo)

We tested these on a variety of snow conditions from wind-drifted powder to frozen crust to rotting corn snow. They are excellent lightweight “emergency” shoes and ideal for use by a smaller person without a pack. They have an excellent and secure binding that’s easy to use with mittens. They are, however, simply too small and too flexible for regular use on steep or sidehill terrain with a winter backpack. An optional “flotation tail” is beautifully engineered to fit securely to the tail of the shoe. Unfortunately, it provided no useful added flotation that we could determine in any of the snow conditions we encountered. In fact, the lengthened tail combined with the short tip of these shoes causes the shoe to tilt down and dig in deeper at the tip, making walking awkward, especially in soft snow or on breakable wind crust. Based on our experience, we recommend the shoes but NOT the flotation tails.

How To: Snowshoes 101

Tim Jones — Thu, 14 Jan 2010 11:25:57 +0000

Slow-but-steady, snowshoes will take you step by step into a winter wonderland. (Tim Jones photo)

Gliding on cross-country skis is elegant (and exhausting). Carving turns on open slopes and through the woods on Telemark and alpine skis is exhilarating. Sledding is simple joy. But if I had to choose one piece of equipment to enjoy snow with, it would probably be a good pair of modern snowshoes.

Slow-but-steady snowshoes are the All Terrain Vehicles of winter. Pick the right pair for you and you can go almost anywhere from the highest summits to the gentlest valley, through deep snow or over slippery ice.

If you don’t already own snowshoes, I’d strongly recommend renting and/or borrowing (ask your friends!) as many different pairs as you possibly can to try out before you buy. Most cross-country ski areas rent snowshoes; so do outdoor shops and many snow-country lodges.

Each brand and each model has slightly different characteristics, different bindings, different price tags. The more you’ve tried, the more likely you are to find the right pair for you.

Frame, filler, binding and cleats, the four major components of a modern snowshoe. (Tim Jones photo)

A snowshoe, has four main components: the frame, the decking which fills the frame (in the case of plastic snowshoes, frame and decking are one), bindings, and traction cleats. Each of these components has its impact on how the snowshoes will perform for you.

Most modern snowshoes have a lightweight aluminum frame which (except among traditionalists) has replaced the bent ash of yesteryear. The decking of modern shoes is plastic instead of rawhide. This combination is strong, lightweight and essentially maintenance free.

The other modern standard is a stiff plastic deck that does away with the need for a frame. They look like they’d break easily. They don’t .

Bindings are especially important. They should be easy for you to put on and take off, preferably with mittens on. More than one pair of snowshoes sits unused in an attic or garage because the bindings are hard to use.

One thing to look for in the binding: does it allow the snowshoe to pivot freely when you lift your foot so the tail of the snowshoe stays on the snow with each step? Some snowshoes have a tight connection (called a toe cord) that forces you to pick up the entire weight of the shoe and any snow that’s on it. Snowshoes with a tight toe cord can flip snow up your back (and down your neck) with each step. Yes, that’s as unpleasant as it sounds. . ..

Sherpa made the very first "modern" aluminum framed snowshoe more than 30 years ago. Not how wimpy the cleats are compared to newer designs--but they still work. (Tim Jones photo)

The final component of modern shoes is traction cleats. These were pioneered more than three decades ago by a defunct company called Sherpa. I still have a pair of the original Sherpa’s and the “teeth” under the foot are tiny compared to today’s crampon-like designs. In fact, many of today’s snowshoe claws are so aggressive, they’ll take you some places you used to need full crampons.

In addition to the claws directly under your foot, most modern snowshoes also have additional cleats or spikes back under your heel area. These allow extra traction on steep downhill terrain if you put a bit of weight on your heel. Trust me, the last thing you want to do is go glissading down a steep slope on your snowshoes—especially if you are wearing a pack.

Any snowshoes are better than no snowshoes, but good ones that you like and find easy to use are the best of all. Snowshoes give you infinite opportunities to enjoy winter at a safe and friendly pace, uphill and down, across the snowcovered landscape. Try some out today. Life isn’t a spectator sport. Get out and enjoy!

Size Matters

The sizing charts companies provide to help you choose snowshoes only tell part of the story. Most only tell you to choose by your weight. But is that weight with or without winter boots, clothes, and the pack you need to carry your winter safety gear? See the problem?

There’s also the matter of flotation. Bigger snowshoes generally float you higher on softer, untracked snow than small shoes do. Some of the tiniest snowshoes today are made for running on packed and groomed trails—but they’re about useless anywhere else. They look tempting, but be careful.

The plus side of smaller shoes is that they are lighter and, perhaps a bit more maneuverable

Personally, I generally pick snowshoes a size larger than the sizing chart recommends—I’d rather go too big than too small, have a little more flotation than too little.

Snowshoe Testing Notes

Alas, in all the years I’ve tramped the trails on snowshoes, I’ve never found the perfect pair for all terrain and conditions. But some are awfully close . . .

In recent years I’ve extensively tested aluminum-frame shoes from TSL, Tubbs, Yukon Charlie’s and Kahtoola. Each has had its pros and cons .

I have less experience with the composite plastic shoes. I tried pre-production prototypes of the first plastic shoes nearly two decades ago when Bill Forrest of Forrest Mountaineering and Patrick Smith of Mountainsmith were making them out of blue plastic barrels. MSR now markets the direct descendents but I’ve never tried the production models. Tubbs and GV Snowshoes also have new composite shoes. I have, however, extensively tested an excellent pair of composite shoes from TSL and will happily give my impressions.

You can occasionally find surplus Canadian military issue snowshoes with magnesium frames and wire fillings for sale, particularly in northern New England. They are bombproof but weigh a ton.

And then of course there are still wood framed snowshoes filled with either traditional rawhide or neoprene. Beautiful to look at and perfectly wonderful on soft snow, they require more care to use and maintain than the knockabout modern models.